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The Innocents Abroad
CHAPTER XXVI
Mark Twain
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       _ Chapter 26 - The Modern Roman on His Travels--The Grandeur of St. Peter's
       --Holy Relics --Grand View from the Dome--The Holy Inquisition
       --Interesting Old Monkish Frauds--The Ruined Coliseum--The Coliseum in
       the Days of its Prime--Ancient Playbill of a Coliseum Performance
       --A Roman Newspaper Criticism 1700 Years Old
       What is it that confers the noblest delight? What is that which swells a
       man's breast with pride above that which any other experience can bring
       to him? Discovery! To know that you are walking where none others have
       walked; that you are beholding what human eye has not seen before; that
       you are breathing a virgin atmosphere. To give birth to an idea--to
       discover a great thought--an intellectual nugget, right under the dust of
       a field that many a brain--plow had gone over before. To find a new
       planet, to invent a new hinge, to find the way to make the lightnings
       carry your messages. To be the first--that is the idea. To do
       something, say something, see something, before any body else--these are
       the things that confer a pleasure compared with which other pleasures are
       tame and commonplace, other ecstasies cheap and trivial. Morse, with his
       first message, brought by his servant, the lightning; Fulton, in that
       long-drawn century of suspense, when he placed his hand upon the
       throttle-valve and lo, the steamboat moved; Jenner, when his patient with
       the cow's virus in his blood, walked through the smallpox hospitals
       unscathed; Howe, when the idea shot through his brain that for a hundred
       and twenty generations the eye had been bored through the wrong end of
       the needle; the nameless lord of art who laid down his chisel in some old
       age that is forgotten, now, and gloated upon the finished Laocoon;
       Daguerre, when he commanded the sun, riding in the zenith, to print the
       landscape upon his insignificant silvered plate, and he obeyed; Columbus,
       in the Pinta's shrouds, when he swung his hat above a fabled sea and
       gazed abroad upon an unknown world! These are the men who have really
       lived--who have actually comprehended what pleasure is--who have crowded
       long lifetimes of ecstasy into a single moment.
       What is there in Rome for me to see that others have not seen before me?
       What is there for me to touch that others have not touched? What is
       there for me to feel, to learn, to hear, to know, that shall thrill me
       before it pass to others? What can I discover?--Nothing. Nothing
       whatsoever. One charm of travel dies here. But if I were only a Roman!
       --If, added to my own I could be gifted with modern Roman sloth, modern
       Roman superstition, and modern Roman boundlessness of ignorance, what
       bewildering worlds of unsuspected wonders I would discover! Ah, if I
       were only a habitant of the Campagna five and twenty miles from Rome!
       Then I would travel.
       I would go to America, and see, and learn, and return to the Campagna and
       stand before my countrymen an illustrious discoverer. I would say:
       "I saw there a country which has no overshadowing Mother Church, and yet
       the people survive. I saw a government which never was protected by
       foreign soldiers at a cost greater than that required to carry on the
       government itself. I saw common men and common women who could read;
       I even saw small children of common country people reading from books;
       if I dared think you would believe it, I would say they could write,
       also.
       "In the cities I saw people drinking a delicious beverage made of chalk
       and water, but never once saw goats driven through their Broadway or
       their Pennsylvania Avenue or their Montgomery street and milked at the
       doors of the houses. I saw real glass windows in the houses of even the
       commonest people. Some of the houses are not of stone, nor yet of
       bricks; I solemnly swear they are made of wood. Houses there will take
       fire and burn, sometimes--actually burn entirely down, and not leave a
       single vestige behind. I could state that for a truth, upon my death-
       bed. And as a proof that the circumstance is not rare, I aver that they
       have a thing which they call a fire-engine, which vomits forth great
       streams of water, and is kept always in readiness, by night and by day,
       to rush to houses that are burning. You would think one engine would be
       sufficient, but some great cities have a hundred; they keep men hired,
       and pay them by the month to do nothing but put out fires. For a certain
       sum of money other men will insure that your house shall not burn down;
       and if it burns they will pay you for it. There are hundreds and
       thousands of schools, and any body may go and learn to be wise, like a
       priest. In that singular country if a rich man dies a sinner, he is
       damned; he can not buy salvation with money for masses. There is really
       not much use in being rich, there. Not much use as far as the other
       world is concerned, but much, very much use, as concerns this; because
       there, if a man be rich, he is very greatly honored, and can become a
       legislator, a governor, a general, a senator, no matter how ignorant an
       ass he is--just as in our beloved Italy the nobles hold all the great
       places, even though sometimes they are born noble idiots. There, if a
       man be rich, they give him costly presents, they ask him to feasts, they
       invite him to drink complicated beverages; but if he be poor and in debt,
       they require him to do that which they term to "settle." The women put
       on a different dress almost every day; the dress is usually fine, but
       absurd in shape; the very shape and fashion of it changes twice in a
       hundred years; and did I but covet to be called an extravagant falsifier,
       I would say it changed even oftener. Hair does not grow upon the
       American women's heads; it is made for them by cunning workmen in the
       shops, and is curled and frizzled into scandalous and ungodly forms.
       Some persons wear eyes of glass which they see through with facility
       perhaps, else they would not use them; and in the mouths of some are
       teeth made by the sacrilegious hand of man. The dress of the men is
       laughably grotesque. They carry no musket in ordinary life, nor no long-
       pointed pole; they wear no wide green-lined cloak; they wear no peaked
       black felt hat, no leathern gaiters reaching to the knee, no goat-skin
       breeches with the hair side out, no hob-nailed shoes, no prodigious
       spurs. They wear a conical hat termed a "nail-kag;" a coat of saddest
       black; a shirt which shows dirt so easily that it has to be changed every
       month, and is very troublesome; things called pantaloons, which are held
       up by shoulder straps, and on their feet they wear boots which are
       ridiculous in pattern and can stand no wear. Yet dressed in this
       fantastic garb, these people laughed at my costume. In that country,
       books are so common that it is really no curiosity to see one.
       Newspapers also. They have a great machine which prints such things by
       thousands every hour.
       "I saw common men, there--men who were neither priests nor princes--who
       yet absolutely owned the land they tilled. It was not rented from the
       church, nor from the nobles. I am ready to take my oath of this. In
       that country you might fall from a third story window three several
       times, and not mash either a soldier or a priest.--The scarcity of such
       people is astonishing. In the cities you will see a dozen civilians for
       every soldier, and as many for every priest or preacher. Jews, there,
       are treated just like human beings, instead of dogs. They can work at
       any business they please; they can sell brand new goods if they want to;
       they can keep drug-stores; they can practice medicine among Christians;
       they can even shake hands with Christians if they choose; they can
       associate with them, just the same as one human being does with another
       human being; they don't have to stay shut up in one corner of the towns;
       they can live in any part of a town they like best; it is said they even
       have the privilege of buying land and houses, and owning them themselves,
       though I doubt that, myself; they never have had to run races naked
       through the public streets, against jackasses, to please the people in
       carnival time; there they never have been driven by the soldiers into a
       church every Sunday for hundreds of years to hear themselves and their
       religion especially and particularly cursed; at this very day, in that
       curious country, a Jew is allowed to vote, hold office, yea, get up on a
       rostrum in the public street and express his opinion of the government if
       the government don't suit him! Ah, it is wonderful. The common people
       there know a great deal; they even have the effrontery to complain if
       they are not properly governed, and to take hold and help conduct the
       government themselves; if they had laws like ours, which give one dollar
       of every three a crop produces to the government for taxes, they would
       have that law altered: instead of paying thirty-three dollars in taxes,
       out of every one hundred they receive, they complain if they have to pay
       seven. They are curious people. They do not know when they are well
       off. Mendicant priests do not prowl among them with baskets begging for
       the church and eating up their substance. One hardly ever sees a
       minister of the gospel going around there in his bare feet, with a
       basket, begging for subsistence. In that country the preachers are not
       like our mendicant orders of friars--they have two or three suits of
       clothing, and they wash sometimes. In that land are mountains far higher
       than the Alban mountains; the vast Roman Campagna, a hundred miles long
       and full forty broad, is really small compared to the United States of
       America; the Tiber, that celebrated river of ours, which stretches its
       mighty course almost two hundred miles, and which a lad can scarcely
       throw a stone across at Rome, is not so long, nor yet so wide, as the
       American Mississippi--nor yet the Ohio, nor even the Hudson. In America
       the people are absolutely wiser and know much more than their
       grandfathers did. They do not plow with a sharpened stick, nor yet with
       a three-cornered block of wood that merely scratches the top of the
       ground. We do that because our fathers did, three thousand years ago, I
       suppose. But those people have no holy reverence for their ancestors.
       They plow with a plow that is a sharp, curved blade of iron, and it cuts
       into the earth full five inches. And this is not all. They cut their
       grain with a horrid machine that mows down whole fields in a day. If I
       dared, I would say that sometimes they use a blasphemous plow that works
       by fire and vapor and tears up an acre of ground in a single hour--but--
       but--I see by your looks that you do not believe the things I am telling
       you. Alas, my character is ruined, and I am a branded speaker of
       untruths!"
       Of course we have been to the monster Church of St. Peter, frequently.
       I knew its dimensions. I knew it was a prodigious structure. I knew it
       was just about the length of the capitol at Washington--say seven hundred
       and thirty feet. I knew it was three hundred and sixty-four feet wide,
       and consequently wider than the capitol. I knew that the cross on the
       top of the dome of the church was four hundred and thirty-eight feet
       above the ground, and therefore about a hundred or may be a hundred and
       twenty-five feet higher than the dome of the capitol.--Thus I had one
       gauge. I wished to come as near forming a correct idea of how it was
       going to look, as possible; I had a curiosity to see how much I would
       err. I erred considerably. St. Peter's did not look nearly so large as
       the capitol, and certainly not a twentieth part as beautiful, from the
       outside.
       When we reached the door, and stood fairly within the church, it was
       impossible to comprehend that it was a very large building. I had to
       cipher a comprehension of it. I had to ransack my memory for some more
       similes. St. Peter's is bulky. Its height and size would represent two
       of the Washington capitol set one on top of the other--if the capitol
       were wider; or two blocks or two blocks and a half of ordinary buildings
       set one on top of the other. St. Peter's was that large, but it could
       and would not look so. The trouble was that every thing in it and about
       it was on such a scale of uniform vastness that there were no contrasts
       to judge by--none but the people, and I had not noticed them. They were
       insects. The statues of children holding vases of holy water were
       immense, according to the tables of figures, but so was every thing else
       around them. The mosaic pictures in the dome were huge, and were made of
       thousands and thousands of cubes of glass as large as the end of my
       little finger, but those pictures looked smooth, and gaudy of color, and
       in good proportion to the dome. Evidently they would not answer to
       measure by. Away down toward the far end of the church (I thought it was
       really clear at the far end, but discovered afterward that it was in the
       centre, under the dome,) stood the thing they call the baldacchino--a
       great bronze pyramidal frame-work like that which upholds a mosquito bar.
       It only looked like a considerably magnified bedstead--nothing more. Yet
       I knew it was a good deal more than half as high as Niagara Falls. It
       was overshadowed by a dome so mighty that its own height was snubbed.
       The four great square piers or pillars that stand equidistant from each
       other in the church, and support the roof, I could not work up to their
       real dimensions by any method of comparison. I knew that the faces of
       each were about the width of a very large dwelling-house front, (fifty or
       sixty feet,) and that they were twice as high as an ordinary three-story
       dwelling, but still they looked small. I tried all the different ways I
       could think of to compel myself to understand how large St. Peter's was,
       but with small success. The mosaic portrait of an Apostle who was
       writing with a pen six feet long seemed only an ordinary Apostle.
       But the people attracted my attention after a while. To stand in the
       door of St. Peter's and look at men down toward its further extremity,
       two blocks away, has a diminishing effect on them; surrounded by the
       prodigious pictures and statues, and lost in the vast spaces, they look
       very much smaller than they would if they stood two blocks away in the
       open air. I "averaged" a man as he passed me and watched him as he
       drifted far down by the baldacchino and beyond--watched him dwindle to an
       insignificant school-boy, and then, in the midst of the silent throng of
       human pigmies gliding about him, I lost him. The church had lately been
       decorated, on the occasion of a great ceremony in honor of St. Peter, and
       men were engaged, now, in removing the flowers and gilt paper from the
       walls and pillars. As no ladders could reach the great heights, the men
       swung themselves down from balustrades and the capitals of pilasters by
       ropes, to do this work. The upper gallery which encircles the inner
       sweep of the dome is two hundred and forty feet above the floor of the
       church--very few steeples in America could reach up to it. Visitors
       always go up there to look down into the church because one gets the best
       idea of some of the heights and distances from that point. While we
       stood on the floor one of the workmen swung loose from that gallery at
       the end of a long rope. I had not supposed, before, that a man could
       look so much like a spider. He was insignificant in size, and his rope
       seemed only a thread. Seeing that he took up so little space, I could
       believe the story, then, that ten thousand troops went to St. Peter's,
       once, to hear mass, and their commanding officer came afterward, and not
       finding them, supposed they had not yet arrived. But they were in the
       church, nevertheless--they were in one of the transepts. Nearly fifty
       thousand persons assembled in St. Peter's to hear the publishing of the
       dogma of the Immaculate Conception. It is estimated that the floor of
       the church affords standing room for--for a large number of people; I
       have forgotten the exact figures. But it is no matter--it is near
       enough.
       They have twelve small pillars, in St. Peter's, which came from Solomon's
       Temple. They have, also--which was far more interesting to me--a piece
       of the true cross, and some nails, and a part of the crown of thorns.
       Of course we ascended to the summit of the dome, and of course we also
       went up into the gilt copper ball which is above it.--There was room
       there for a dozen persons, with a little crowding, and it was as close
       and hot as an oven. Some of those people who are so fond of writing
       their names in prominent places had been there before us--a million or
       two, I should think. From the dome of St. Peter's one can see every
       notable object in Rome, from the Castle of St. Angelo to the Coliseum.
       He can discern the seven hills upon which Rome is built. He can see the
       Tiber, and the locality of the bridge which Horatius kept "in the brave
       days of old" when Lars Porsena attempted to cross it with his invading
       host. He can see the spot where the Horatii and the Curatii fought their
       famous battle. He can see the broad green Campagna, stretching away
       toward the mountains, with its scattered arches and broken aqueducts of
       the olden time, so picturesque in their gray ruin, and so daintily
       festooned with vines. He can see the Alban Mountains, the Appenines, the
       Sabine Hills, and the blue Mediterranean. He can see a panorama that is
       varied, extensive, beautiful to the eye, and more illustrious in history
       than any other in Europe.--About his feet is spread the remnant of a
       city that once had a population of four million souls; and among its
       massed edifices stand the ruins of temples, columns, and triumphal arches
       that knew the Caesars, and the noonday of Roman splendor; and close by
       them, in unimpaired strength, is a drain of arched and heavy masonry that
       belonged to that older city which stood here before Romulus and Remus
       were born or Rome thought of. The Appian Way is here yet, and looking
       much as it did, perhaps, when the triumphal processions of the Emperors
       moved over it in other days bringing fettered princes from the confines
       of the earth. We can not see the long array of chariots and mail-clad
       men laden with the spoils of conquest, but we can imagine the pageant,
       after a fashion. We look out upon many objects of interest from the dome
       of St. Peter's; and last of all, almost at our feet, our eyes rest upon
       the building which was once the Inquisition. How times changed, between
       the older ages and the new! Some seventeen or eighteen centuries ago,
       the ignorant men of Rome were wont to put Christians in the arena of the
       Coliseum yonder, and turn the wild beasts in upon them for a show. It
       was for a lesson as well. It was to teach the people to abhor and fear
       the new doctrine the followers of Christ were teaching. The beasts tore
       the victims limb from limb and made poor mangled corpses of them in the
       twinkling of an eye. But when the Christians came into power, when the
       holy Mother Church became mistress of the barbarians, she taught them the
       error of their ways by no such means. No, she put them in this pleasant
       Inquisition and pointed to the Blessed Redeemer, who was so gentle and so
       merciful toward all men, and they urged the barbarians to love him; and
       they did all they could to persuade them to love and honor him--first by
       twisting their thumbs out of joint with a screw; then by nipping their
       flesh with pincers--red-hot ones, because they are the most comfortable
       in cold weather; then by skinning them alive a little, and finally by
       roasting them in public. They always convinced those barbarians. The
       true religion, properly administered, as the good Mother Church used to
       administer it, is very, very soothing. It is wonderfully persuasive,
       also. There is a great difference between feeding parties to wild beasts
       and stirring up their finer feelings in an Inquisition. One is the
       system of degraded barbarians, the other of enlightened, civilized
       people. It is a great pity the playful Inquisition is no more.
       I prefer not to describe St. Peter's. It has been done before. The
       ashes of Peter, the disciple of the Saviour, repose in a crypt under the
       baldacchino. We stood reverently in that place; so did we also in the
       Mamertine Prison, where he was confined, where he converted the soldiers,
       and where tradition says he caused a spring of water to flow in order
       that he might baptize them. But when they showed us the print of Peter's
       face in the hard stone of the prison wall and said he made that by
       falling up against it, we doubted. And when, also, the monk at the
       church of San Sebastian showed us a paving-stone with two great
       footprints in it and said that Peter's feet made those, we lacked
       confidence again. Such things do not impress one. The monk said that
       angels came and liberated Peter from prison by night, and he started away
       from Rome by the Appian Way. The Saviour met him and told him to go
       back, which he did. Peter left those footprints in the stone upon which
       he stood at the time. It was not stated how it was ever discovered whose
       footprints they were, seeing the interview occurred secretly and at
       night. The print of the face in the prison was that of a man of common
       size; the footprints were those of a man ten or twelve feet high. The
       discrepancy confirmed our unbelief.
       We necessarily visited the Forum, where Caesar was assassinated, and also
       the Tarpeian Rock. We saw the Dying Gladiator at the Capitol, and I
       think that even we appreciated that wonder of art; as much, perhaps, as
       we did that fearful story wrought in marble, in the Vatican--the Laocoon.
       And then the Coliseum.
       Every body knows the picture of the Coliseum; every body recognizes at
       once that "looped and windowed" band-box with a side bitten out. Being
       rather isolated, it shows to better advantage than any other of the
       monuments of ancient Rome. Even the beautiful Pantheon, whose pagan
       altars uphold the cross, now, and whose Venus, tricked out in consecrated
       gimcracks, does reluctant duty as a Virgin Mary to-day, is built about
       with shabby houses and its stateliness sadly marred. But the monarch of
       all European ruins, the Coliseum, maintains that reserve and that royal
       seclusion which is proper to majesty. Weeds and flowers spring from its
       massy arches and its circling seats, and vines hang their fringes from
       its lofty walls. An impressive silence broods over the monstrous
       structure where such multitudes of men and women were wont to assemble in
       other days. The butterflies have taken the places of the queens of
       fashion and beauty of eighteen centuries ago, and the lizards sun
       themselves in the sacred seat of the Emperor. More vividly than all the
       written histories, the Coliseum tells the story of Rome's grandeur and
       Rome's decay. It is the worthiest type of both that exists. Moving
       about the Rome of to-day, we might find it hard to believe in her old
       magnificence and her millions of population; but with this stubborn
       evidence before us that she was obliged to have a theatre with sitting
       room for eighty thousand persons and standing room for twenty thousand
       more, to accommodate such of her citizens as required amusement, we find
       belief less difficult. The Coliseum is over one thousand six hundred
       feet long, seven hundred and fifty wide, and one hundred and sixty-five
       high. Its shape is oval.
       In America we make convicts useful at the same time that we punish them
       for their crimes. We farm them out and compel them to earn money for the
       State by making barrels and building roads. Thus we combine business
       with retribution, and all things are lovely. But in ancient Rome they
       combined religious duty with pleasure. Since it was necessary that the
       new sect called Christians should be exterminated, the people judged it
       wise to make this work profitable to the State at the same time, and
       entertaining to the public. In addition to the gladiatorial combats and
       other shows, they sometimes threw members of the hated sect into the
       arena of the Coliseum and turned wild beasts in upon them. It is
       estimated that seventy thousand Christians suffered martyrdom in this
       place. This has made the Coliseum holy ground, in the eyes of the
       followers of the Saviour. And well it might; for if the chain that bound
       a saint, and the footprints a saint has left upon a stone he chanced to
       stand upon, be holy, surely the spot where a man gave up his life for his
       faith is holy.
       Seventeen or eighteen centuries ago this Coliseum was the theatre of
       Rome, and Rome was mistress of the world. Splendid pageants were
       exhibited here, in presence of the Emperor, the great ministers of State,
       the nobles, and vast audiences of citizens of smaller consequence.
       Gladiators fought with gladiators and at times with warrior prisoners
       from many a distant land. It was the theatre of Rome--of the world--and
       the man of fashion who could not let fall in a casual and unintentional
       manner something about "my private box at the Coliseum" could not move in
       the first circles. When the clothing-store merchant wished to consume
       the corner grocery man with envy, he bought secured seats in the front
       row and let the thing be known. When the irresistible dry goods clerk
       wished to blight and destroy, according to his native instinct, he got
       himself up regardless of expense and took some other fellow's young lady
       to the Coliseum, and then accented the affront by cramming her with ice
       cream between the acts, or by approaching the cage and stirring up the
       martyrs with his whalebone cane for her edification. The Roman swell was
       in his true element only when he stood up against a pillar and fingered
       his moustache unconscious of the ladies; when he viewed the bloody
       combats through an opera-glass two inches long; when he excited the envy
       of provincials by criticisms which showed that he had been to the
       Coliseum many and many a time and was long ago over the novelty of it;
       when he turned away with a yawn at last and said,
       "He a star! handles his sword like an apprentice brigand! he'll do for
       the country, may be, but he don't answer for the metropolis!"
       Glad was the contraband that had a seat in the pit at the Saturday
       matinee, and happy the Roman street-boy who ate his peanuts and guyed the
       gladiators from the dizzy gallery.
       For me was reserved the high honor of discovering among the rubbish of
       the ruined Coliseum the only playbill of that establishment now extant.
       There was a suggestive smell of mint-drops about it still, a corner of it
       had evidently been chewed, and on the margin, in choice Latin, these
       words were written in a delicate female hand:
       "Meet me on the Tarpeian Rock tomorrow evening, dear, at sharp
       seven. Mother will be absent on a visit to her friends in the
       Sabine Hills. CLAUDIA."
       Ah, where is that lucky youth to-day, and where the little hand that
       wrote those dainty lines? Dust and ashes these seventeen hundred years!
       Thus reads the bill:
       ROMAN COLISEUM.
       UNPARALLELED ATTRACTION!
       NEW PROPERTIES! NEW LIONS! NEW GLADIATORS!
       Engagement of the renowned
       MARCUS MARCELLUS VALERIAN!
       FOR SIX NIGHTS ONLY!
       The management beg leave to offer to the public an entertainment
       surpassing in magnificence any thing that has heretofore been attempted
       on any stage. No expense has been spared to make the opening season one
       which shall be worthy the generous patronage which the management feel
       sure will crown their efforts. The management beg leave to state that
       they have succeeded in securing the services of a
       GALAXY OF TALENT!
       such as has not been beheld in Rome before.
       The performance will commence this evening with a
       GRAND BROADSWORD COMBAT!
       between two young and promising amateurs and a celebrated Parthian
       gladiator who has just arrived a prisoner from the Camp of Verus.
       This will be followed by a grand moral
       BATTLE-AX ENGAGEMENT!
       between the renowned Valerian (with one hand tied behind him,) and two
       gigantic savages from Britain.
       After which the renowned Valerian (if he survive,) will fight with the
       broad-sword,
       LEFT HANDED!
       against six Sophomores and a Freshman from the Gladiatorial College!
       A long series of brilliant engagements will follow, in which the finest
       talent of the Empire will take part
       After which the celebrated Infant Prodigy known as
       "THE YOUNG ACHILLES,"
       will engage four tiger whelps in combat, armed with no other weapon than
       his little spear!
       The whole to conclude with a chaste and elegant
       GENERAL SLAUGHTER!
       In which thirteen African Lions and twenty-two Barbarian Prisoners will
       war with each other until all are exterminated.
       BOX OFFICE NOW OPEN.
       Dress Circle One Dollar; Children and Servants half price.
       An efficient police force will be on hand to preserve order and keep the
       wild beasts from leaping the railings and discommoding the audience.
       Doors open at 7; performance begins at 8.
       POSITIVELY NO FREE LIST.
       Diodorus Job Press.
       It was as singular as it was gratifying that I was also so fortunate as
       to find among the rubbish of the arena, a stained and mutilated copy of
       the Roman Daily Battle-Ax, containing a critique upon this very
       performance. It comes to hand too late by many centuries to rank as
       news, and therefore I translate and publish it simply to show how very
       little the general style and phraseology of dramatic criticism has
       altered in the ages that have dragged their slow length along since the
       carriers laid this one damp and fresh before their Roman patrons:
       "THE OPENING SEASON.--COLISEUM.--Notwithstanding the inclemency of
       the weather, quite a respectable number of the rank and fashion of
       the city assembled last night to witness the debut upon metropolitan
       boards of the young tragedian who has of late been winning such
       golden opinions in the amphitheatres of the provinces. Some sixty
       thousand persons were present, and but for the fact that the streets
       were almost impassable, it is fair to presume that the house would
       have been full. His august Majesty, the Emperor Aurelius, occupied
       the imperial box, and was the cynosure of all eyes. Many
       illustrious nobles and generals of the Empire graced the occasion
       with their presence, and not the least among them was the young
       patrician lieutenant whose laurels, won in the ranks of the
       "Thundering Legion," are still so green upon his brow. The cheer
       which greeted his entrance was heard beyond the Tiber!
       "The late repairs and decorations add both to the comeliness and the
       comfort of the Coliseum. The new cushions are a great improvement
       upon the hard marble seats we have been so long accustomed to. The
       present management deserve well of the public. They have restored
       to the Coliseum the gilding, the rich upholstery and the uniform
       magnificence which old Coliseum frequenters tell us Rome was so
       proud of fifty years ago.
       "The opening scene last night--the broadsword combat between two
       young amateurs and a famous Parthian gladiator who was sent here a
       prisoner--was very fine. The elder of the two young gentlemen
       handled his weapon with a grace that marked the possession of
       extraordinary talent. His feint of thrusting, followed instantly by
       a happily delivered blow which unhelmeted the Parthian, was received
       with hearty applause. He was not thoroughly up in the backhanded
       stroke, but it was very gratifying to his numerous friends to know
       that, in time, practice would have overcome this defect. However,
       he was killed. His sisters, who were present, expressed
       considerable regret. His mother left the Coliseum. The other youth
       maintained the contest with such spirit as to call forth
       enthusiastic bursts of applause. When at last he fell a corpse, his
       aged mother ran screaming, with hair disheveled and tears streaming
       from her eyes, and swooned away just as her hands were clutching at
       the railings of the arena. She was promptly removed by the police.
       Under the circumstances the woman's conduct was pardonable, perhaps,
       but we suggest that such exhibitions interfere with the decorum
       which should be preserved during the performances, and are highly
       improper in the presence of the Emperor. The Parthian prisoner
       fought bravely and well; and well he might, for he was fighting for
       both life and liberty. His wife and children were there to nerve
       his arm with their love, and to remind him of the old home he should
       see again if he conquered. When his second assailant fell, the
       woman clasped her children to her breast and wept for joy. But it
       was only a transient happiness. The captive staggered toward her
       and she saw that the liberty he had earned was earned too late. He
       was wounded unto death. Thus the first act closed in a manner which
       was entirely satisfactory. The manager was called before the
       curtain and returned his thanks for the honor done him, in a speech
       which was replete with wit and humor, and closed by hoping that his
       humble efforts to afford cheerful and instructive entertainment
       would continue to meet with the approbation of the Roman public
       "The star now appeared, and was received with vociferous applause
       and the simultaneous waving of sixty thousand handkerchiefs. Marcus
       Marcellus Valerian (stage name--his real name is Smith,) is a
       splendid specimen of physical development, and an artist of rare
       merit. His management of the battle-ax is wonderful. His gayety
       and his playfulness are irresistible, in his comic parts, and yet
       they are inferior to his sublime conceptions in the grave realm of
       tragedy. When his ax was describing fiery circles about the heads
       of the bewildered barbarians, in exact time with his springing body
       and his prancing legs, the audience gave way to uncontrollable
       bursts of laughter; but when the back of his weapon broke the skull
       of one and almost in the same instant its edge clove the other's
       body in twain, the howl of enthusiastic applause that shook the
       building, was the acknowledgment of a critical assemblage that he
       was a master of the noblest department of his profession. If he has
       a fault, (and we are sorry to even intimate that he has,) it is that
       of glancing at the audience, in the midst of the most exciting
       moments of the performance, as if seeking admiration. The pausing
       in a fight to bow when bouquets are thrown to him is also in bad
       taste. In the great left-handed combat he appeared to be looking at
       the audience half the time, instead of carving his adversaries; and
       when he had slain all the sophomores and was dallying with the
       freshman, he stooped and snatched a bouquet as it fell, and offered
       it to his adversary at a time when a blow was descending which
       promised favorably to be his death-warrant. Such levity is proper
       enough in the provinces, we make no doubt, but it ill suits the
       dignity of the metropolis. We trust our young friend will take
       these remarks in good part, for we mean them solely for his benefit.
       All who know us are aware that although we are at times justly
       severe upon tigers and martyrs, we never intentionally offend
       gladiators.
       "The Infant Prodigy performed wonders. He overcame his four tiger
       whelps with ease, and with no other hurt than the loss of a portion
       of his scalp. The General Slaughter was rendered with a
       faithfulness to details which reflects the highest credit upon the
       late participants in it.
       "Upon the whole, last night's performances shed honor not only upon
       the management but upon the city that encourages and sustains such
       wholesome and instructive entertainments. We would simply suggest
       that the practice of vulgar young boys in the gallery of shying
       peanuts and paper pellets at the tigers, and saying "Hi-yi!" and
       manifesting approbation or dissatisfaction by such observations as
       "Bully for the lion!" "Go it, Gladdy!" "Boots!" "Speech!" "Take
       a walk round the block!" and so on, are extremely reprehensible,
       when the Emperor is present, and ought to be stopped by the police.
       Several times last night, when the supernumeraries entered the arena
       to drag out the bodies, the young ruffians in the gallery shouted,
       "Supe! supe!" and also, "Oh, what a coat!" and "Why don't you pad
       them shanks?" and made use of various other remarks expressive of
       derision. These things are very annoying to the audience.
       "A matinee for the little folks is promised for this afternoon, on
       which occasion several martyrs will be eaten by the tigers. The
       regular performance will continue every night till further notice.
       Material change of programme every evening. Benefit of Valerian,
       Tuesday, 29th, if he lives."
       I have been a dramatic critic myself, in my time, and I was often
       surprised to notice how much more I knew about Hamlet than Forrest did;
       and it gratifies me to observe, now, how much better my brethren of
       ancient times knew how a broad sword battle ought to be fought than the
       gladiators. _