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The Uncommercial Traveller
CHAPTER XXII - BOUND FOR THE GREAT SALT LAKE
Charles Dickens
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       _ Behold me on my way to an Emigrant Ship, on a hot morning early in
       June. My road lies through that part of London generally known to
       the initiated as 'Down by the Docks.' Down by the Docks, is home
       to a good many people--to too many, if I may judge from the
       overflow of local population in the streets--but my nose insinuates
       that the number to whom it is Sweet Home might be easily counted.
       Down by the Docks, is a region I would choose as my point of
       embarkation aboard ship if I were an emigrant. It would present my
       intention to me in such a sensible light; it would show me so many
       things to be run away from.
       Down by the Docks, they eat the largest oysters and scatter the
       roughest oyster-shells, known to the descendants of Saint George
       and the Dragon. Down by the Docks, they consume the slimiest of
       shell-fish, which seem to have been scraped off the copper bottoms
       of ships. Down by the Docks, the vegetables at green-grocers'
       doors acquire a saline and a scaly look, as if they had been
       crossed with fish and seaweed. Down by the Docks, they 'board
       seamen' at the eating-houses, the public-houses, the slop-shops,
       the coffee-shops, the tally-shops, all kinds of shops mentionable
       and unmentionable--board them, as it were, in the piratical sense,
       making them bleed terribly, and giving no quarter. Down by the
       Docks, the seamen roam in mid-street and mid-day, their pockets
       inside out, and their heads no better. Down by the Docks, the
       daughters of wave-ruling Britannia also rove, clad in silken
       attire, with uncovered tresses streaming in the breeze, bandanna
       kerchiefs floating from their shoulders, and crinoline not wanting.
       Down by the Docks, you may hear the Incomparable Joe Jackson sing
       the Standard of England, with a hornpipe, any night; or any day may
       see at the waxwork, for a penny and no waiting, him as killed the
       policeman at Acton and suffered for it. Down by the Docks, you may
       buy polonies, saveloys, and sausage preparations various, if you
       are not particular what they are made of besides seasoning. Down
       by the Docks, the children of Israel creep into any gloomy cribs
       and entries they can hire, and hang slops there--pewter watches,
       sou'-wester hats, waterproof overalls--'firtht rate articleth,
       Thjack.' Down by the Docks, such dealers exhibiting on a frame a
       complete nautical suit without the refinement of a waxen visage in
       the hat, present the imaginary wearer as drooping at the yard-arm,
       with his seafaring and earthfaring troubles over. Down by the
       Docks, the placards in the shops apostrophise the customer, knowing
       him familiarly beforehand, as, 'Look here, Jack!' 'Here's your
       sort, my lad!' 'Try our sea-going mixed, at two and nine!' 'The
       right kit for the British tar!' 'Ship ahoy!' 'Splice the main-
       brace, brother!' 'Come, cheer up, my lads. We've the best liquors
       here, And you'll find something new In our wonderful Beer!' Down
       by the Docks, the pawnbroker lends money on Union-Jack pocket-
       handkerchiefs, on watches with little ships pitching fore and aft
       on the dial, on telescopes, nautical instruments in cases, and
       such-like. Down by the Docks, the apothecary sets up in business
       on the wretchedest scale--chiefly on lint and plaster for the
       strapping of wounds--and with no bright bottles, and with no little
       drawers. Down by the Docks, the shabby undertaker's shop will bury
       you for next to nothing, after the Malay or Chinaman has stabbed
       you for nothing at all: so you can hardly hope to make a cheaper
       end. Down by the Docks, anybody drunk will quarrel with anybody
       drunk or sober, and everybody else will have a hand in it, and on
       the shortest notice you may revolve in a whirlpool of red shirts,
       shaggy beards, wild heads of hair, bare tattooed arms, Britannia's
       daughters, malice, mud, maundering, and madness. Down by the
       Docks, scraping fiddles go in the public-houses all day long, and,
       shrill above their din and all the din, rises the screeching of
       innumerable parrots brought from foreign parts, who appear to be
       very much astonished by what they find on these native shores of
       ours. Possibly the parrots don't know, possibly they do, that Down
       by the Docks is the road to the Pacific Ocean, with its lovely
       islands, where the savage girls plait flowers, and the savage boys
       carve cocoa-nut shells, and the grim blind idols muse in their
       shady groves to exactly the same purpose as the priests and chiefs.
       And possibly the parrots don't know, possibly they do, that the
       noble savage is a wearisome impostor wherever he is, and has five
       hundred thousand volumes of indifferent rhyme, and no reason, to
       answer for.
       Shadwell church! Pleasant whispers of there being a fresher air
       down the river than down by the Docks, go pursuing one another,
       playfully, in and out of the openings in its spire. Gigantic in
       the basin just beyond the church, looms my Emigrant Ship: her
       name, the Amazon. Her figure-head is not disfigured as those
       beauteous founders of the race of strong-minded women are fabled to
       have been, for the convenience of drawing the bow; but I sympathise
       with the carver:
       A flattering carver who made it his care
       To carve busts as they ought to be--not as they were.
       My Emigrant Ship lies broadside-on to the wharf. Two great
       gangways made of spars and planks connect her with the wharf; and
       up and down these gangways, perpetually crowding to and fro and in
       and out, like ants, are the Emigrants who are going to sail in my
       Emigrant Ship. Some with cabbages, some with loaves of bread, some
       with cheese and butter, some with milk and beer, some with boxes,
       beds, and bundles, some with babies--nearly all with children--
       nearly all with bran-new tin cans for their daily allowance of
       water, uncomfortably suggestive of a tin flavour in the drink. To
       and fro, up and down, aboard and ashore, swarming here and there
       and everywhere, my Emigrants. And still as the Dock-Gate swings
       upon its hinges, cabs appear, and carts appear, and vans appear,
       bringing more of my Emigrants, with more cabbages, more loaves,
       more cheese and butter, more milk and beer, more boxes, beds, and
       bundles, more tin cans, and on those shipping investments
       accumulated compound interest of children.
       I go aboard my Emigrant Ship. I go first to the great cabin, and
       find it in the usual condition of a Cabin at that pass. Perspiring
       landsmen, with loose papers, and with pens and inkstands, pervade
       it; and the general appearance of things is as if the late Mr.
       Amazon's funeral had just come home from the cemetery, and the
       disconsolate Mrs. Amazon's trustees found the affairs in great
       disorder, and were looking high and low for the will. I go out on
       the poop-deck, for air, and surveying the emigrants on the deck
       below (indeed they are crowded all about me, up there too), find
       more pens and inkstands in action, and more papers, and
       interminable complication respecting accounts with individuals for
       tin cans and what not. But nobody is in an ill-temper, nobody is
       the worse for drink, nobody swears an oath or uses a coarse word,
       nobody appears depressed, nobody is weeping, and down upon the deck
       in every corner where it is possible to find a few square feet to
       kneel, crouch, or lie in, people, in every unsuitable attitude for
       writing, are writing letters.
       Now, I have seen emigrant ships before this day in June. And these
       people are so strikingly different from all other people in like
       circumstances whom I have ever seen, that I wonder aloud, 'What
       WOULD a stranger suppose these emigrants to be!'
       The vigilant, bright face of the weather-browned captain of the
       Amazon is at my shoulder, and he says, 'What, indeed! The most of
       these came aboard yesterday evening. They came from various parts
       of England in small parties that had never seen one another before.
       Yet they had not been a couple of hours on board, when they
       established their own police, made their own regulations, and set
       their own watches at all the hatchways. Before nine o'clock, the
       ship was as orderly and as quiet as a man-of-war.'
       I looked about me again, and saw the letter-writing going on with
       the most curious composure. Perfectly abstracted in the midst of
       the crowd; while great casks were swinging aloft, and being lowered
       into the hold; while hot agents were hurrying up and down,
       adjusting the interminable accounts; while two hundred strangers
       were searching everywhere for two hundred other strangers, and were
       asking questions about them of two hundred more; while the children
       played up and down all the steps, and in and out among all the
       people's legs, and were beheld, to the general dismay, toppling
       over all the dangerous places; the letter-writers wrote on calmly.
       On the starboard side of the ship, a grizzled man dictated a long
       letter to another grizzled man in an immense fur cap: which letter
       was of so profound a quality, that it became necessary for the
       amanuensis at intervals to take off his fur cap in both his hands,
       for the ventilation of his brain, and stare at him who dictated, as
       a man of many mysteries who was worth looking at. On the lar-board
       side, a woman had covered a belaying-pin with a white cloth to make
       a neat desk of it, and was sitting on a little box, writing with
       the deliberation of a bookkeeper. Down, upon her breast on the
       planks of the deck at this woman's feet, with her head diving in
       under a beam of the bulwarks on that side, as an eligible place of
       refuge for her sheet of paper, a neat and pretty girl wrote for a
       good hour (she fainted at last), only rising to the surface
       occasionally for a dip of ink. Alongside the boat, close to me on
       the poop-deck, another girl, a fresh, well-grown country girl, was
       writing another letter on the bare deck. Later in the day, when
       this self-same boat was filled with a choir who sang glees and
       catches for a long time, one of the singers, a girl, sang her part
       mechanically all the while, and wrote a letter in the bottom of the
       boat while doing so.
       'A stranger would be puzzled to guess the right name for these
       people, Mr. Uncommercial,' says the captain.
       'Indeed he would.'
       'If you hadn't known, could you ever have supposed--?'
       'How could I! I should have said they were in their degree, the
       pick and flower of England.'
       'So should I,' says the captain.
       'How many are they?'
       'Eight hundred in round numbers.'
       I went between-decks, where the families with children swarmed in
       the dark, where unavoidable confusion had been caused by the last
       arrivals, and where the confusion was increased by the little
       preparations for dinner that were going on in each group. A few
       women here and there, had got lost, and were laughing at it, and
       asking their way to their own people, or out on deck again. A few
       of the poor children were crying; but otherwise the universal
       cheerfulness was amazing. 'We shall shake down by to-morrow.' 'We
       shall come all right in a day or so.' 'We shall have more light at
       sea.' Such phrases I heard everywhere, as I groped my way among
       chests and barrels and beams and unstowed cargo and ring-bolts and
       Emigrants, down to the lower-deck, and thence up to the light of
       day again, and to my former station.
       Surely, an extraordinary people in their power of self-abstraction!
       All the former letter-writers were still writing calmly, and many
       more letter-writers had broken out in my absence. A boy with a bag
       of books in his hand and a slate under his arm, emerged from below,
       concentrated himself in my neighbourhood (espying a convenient
       skylight for his purpose), and went to work at a sum as if he were
       stone deaf. A father and mother and several young children, on the
       main deck below me, had formed a family circle close to the foot of
       the crowded restless gangway, where the children made a nest for
       themselves in a coil of rope, and the father and mother, she
       suckling the youngest, discussed family affairs as peaceably as if
       they were in perfect retirement. I think the most noticeable
       characteristic in the eight hundred as a mass, was their exemption
       from hurry.
       Eight hundred what? 'Geese, villain?' EIGHT HUNDRED MORMONS. I,
       Uncommercial Traveller for the firm of Human Interest Brothers, had
       come aboard this Emigrant Ship to see what Eight hundred Latter-day
       Saints were like, and I found them (to the rout and overthrow of
       all my expectations) like what I now describe with scrupulous
       exactness.
       The Mormon Agent who had been active in getting them together, and
       in making the contract with my friends the owners of the ship to
       take them as far as New York on their way to the Great Salt Lake,
       was pointed out to me. A compactly-made handsome man in black,
       rather short, with rich brown hair and beard, and clear bright
       eyes. From his speech, I should set him down as American.
       Probably, a man who had 'knocked about the world' pretty much. A
       man with a frank open manner, and unshrinking look; withal a man of
       great quickness. I believe he was wholly ignorant of my
       Uncommercial individuality, and consequently of my immense
       Uncommercial importance.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. These are a very fine set of people you have brought
       together here.
       MORMON AGENT. Yes, sir, they are a VERY fine set of people.
       UNCOMMERCIAL (looking about). Indeed, I think it would be
       difficult to find Eight hundred people together anywhere else, and
       find so much beauty and so much strength and capacity for work
       among them.
       MORMON AGENT (not looking about, but looking steadily at
       Uncommercial). I think so.--We sent out about a thousand more,
       yes'day, from Liverpool.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. You are not going with these emigrants?
       MORMON AGENT. No, sir. I remain.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. But you have been in the Mormon Territory?
       MORMON AGENT. Yes; I left Utah about three years ago.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. It is surprising to me that these people are all so
       cheery, and make so little of the immense distance before them.
       MORMON AGENT. Well, you see; many of 'em have friends out at Utah,
       and many of 'em look forward to meeting friends on the way.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. On the way?
       MORMON AGENT. This way 'tis. This ship lands 'em in New York
       City. Then they go on by rail right away beyond St. Louis, to that
       part of the Banks of the Missouri where they strike the Plains.
       There, waggons from the settlement meet 'em to bear 'em company on
       their journey 'cross-twelve hundred miles about. Industrious
       people who come out to the settlement soon get waggons of their
       own, and so the friends of some of these will come down in their
       own waggons to meet 'em. They look forward to that, greatly.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. On their long journey across the Desert, do you arm
       them?
       MORMON AGENT. Mostly you would find they have arms of some kind or
       another already with them. Such as had not arms we should arm
       across the Plains, for the general protection and defence.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. Will these waggons bring down any produce to the
       Missouri?
       MORMON AGENT. Well, since the war broke out, we've taken to
       growing cotton, and they'll likely bring down cotton to be
       exchanged for machinery. We want machinery. Also we have taken to
       growing indigo, which is a fine commodity for profit. It has been
       found that the climate on the further side of the Great Salt Lake
       suits well for raising indigo.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. I am told that these people now on board are
       principally from the South of England?
       MORMON AGENT. And from Wales. That's true.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. Do you get many Scotch?
       MORMON AGENT. Not many.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. Highlanders, for instance?
       MORMON AGENT. No, not Highlanders. They ain't interested enough
       in universal brotherhood and peace and good will.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. The old fighting blood is strong in them?
       MORMON AGENT. Well, yes. And besides; they've no faith.
       UNCOMMERCIAL (who has been burning to get at the Prophet Joe Smith,
       and seems to discover an opening). Faith in--!
       MORMON AGENT (far too many for Uncommercial). Well.--In anything!
       Similarly on this same head, the Uncommercial underwent
       discomfiture from a Wiltshire labourer: a simple, fresh-coloured
       farm-labourer, of eight-and-thirty, who at one time stood beside
       him looking on at new arrivals, and with whom he held this
       dialogue:
       UNCOMMERCIAL. Would you mind my asking you what part of the
       country you come from?
       WILTSHIRE. Not a bit. Theer! (exultingly) I've worked all my life
       o' Salisbury Plain, right under the shadder o' Stonehenge. You
       mightn't think it, but I haive.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. And a pleasant country too.
       WILTSHIRE. Ah! 'Tis a pleasant country.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. Have you any family on board?
       WILTSHIRE. Two children, boy and gal. I am a widderer, _I_ am,
       and I'm going out alonger my boy and gal. That's my gal, and she's
       a fine gal o' sixteen (pointing out the girl who is writing by the
       boat). I'll go and fetch my boy. I'd like to show you my boy.
       (Here Wiltshire disappears, and presently comes back with a big,
       shy boy of twelve, in a superabundance of boots, who is not at all
       glad to be presented.) He is a fine boy too, and a boy fur to
       work! (Boy having undutifully bolted, Wiltshire drops him.)
       UNCOMMERCIAL. It must cost you a great deal of money to go so far,
       three strong.
       WILTSHIRE. A power of money. Theer! Eight shillen a week, eight
       shillen a week, eight shillen a week, put by out of the week's
       wages for ever so long.
       UNCOMMERCIAL. I wonder how you did it.
       WILTSHIRE (recognising in this a kindred spirit). See theer now!
       I wonder how I done it! But what with a bit o' subscription heer,
       and what with a bit o' help theer, it were done at last, though I
       don't hardly know how. Then it were unfort'net for us, you see, as
       we got kep' in Bristol so long--nigh a fortnight, it were--on
       accounts of a mistake wi' Brother Halliday. Swaller'd up money, it
       did, when we might have come straight on.
       UNCOMMERCIAL (delicately approaching Joe Smith). You are of the
       Mormon religion, of course?
       WILTSHIRE (confidently). O yes, I'm a Mormon. (Then
       reflectively.) I'm a Mormon. (Then, looking round the ship,
       feigns to descry a particular friend in an empty spot, and evades
       the Uncommercial for evermore.)
       After a noontide pause for dinner, during which my Emigrants were
       nearly all between-decks, and the Amazon looked deserted, a general
       muster took place. The muster was for the ceremony of passing the
       Government Inspector and the Doctor. Those authorities held their
       temporary state amidships, by a cask or two; and, knowing that the
       whole Eight hundred emigrants must come face to face with them, I
       took my station behind the two. They knew nothing whatever of me,
       I believe, and my testimony to the unpretending gentleness and good
       nature with which they discharged their duty, may be of the greater
       worth. There was not the slightest flavour of the Circumlocution
       Office about their proceedings.
       The emigrants were now all on deck. They were densely crowded aft,
       and swarmed upon the poop-deck like bees. Two or three Mormon
       agents stood ready to hand them on to the Inspector, and to hand
       them forward when they had passed. By what successful means, a
       special aptitude for organisation had been infused into these
       people, I am, of course, unable to report. But I know that, even
       now, there was no disorder, hurry, or difficulty.
       All being ready, the first group are handed on. That member of the
       party who is entrusted with the passenger-ticket for the whole, has
       been warned by one of the agents to have it ready, and here it is
       in his hand. In every instance through the whole eight hundred,
       without an exception, this paper is always ready.
       INSPECTOR (reading the ticket). Jessie Jobson, Sophronia Jobson,
       Jessie Jobson again, Matilda Jobson, William Jobson, Jane Jobson,
       Matilda Jobson again, Brigham Jobson, Leonardo Jobson, and Orson
       Jobson. Are you all here? (glancing at the party, over his
       spectacles).
       JESSIE JOBSON NUMBER TWO. All here, sir.
       This group is composed of an old grandfather and grandmother, their
       married son and his wife, and THEIR family of children. Orson
       Jobson is a little child asleep in his mother's arms. The Doctor,
       with a kind word or so, lifts up the corner of the mother's shawl,
       looks at the child's face, and touches the little clenched hand.
       If we were all as well as Orson Jobson, doctoring would be a poor
       profession.
       INSPECTOR. Quite right, Jessie Jobson. Take your ticket, Jessie,
       and pass on.
       And away they go. Mormon agent, skilful and quiet, hands them on.
       Mormon agent, skilful and quiet, hands next party up.
       INSPECTOR (reading ticket again). Susannah Cleverly and William
       Cleverly. Brother and sister, eh?
       SISTER (young woman of business, hustling slow brother). Yes, sir.
       INSPECTOR. Very good, Susannah Cleverly. Take your ticket,
       Susannah, and take care of it.
       And away they go.
       INSPECTOR (taking ticket again). Sampson Dibble and Dorothy Dibble
       (surveying a very old couple over his spectacles, with some
       surprise). Your husband quite blind, Mrs. Dibble?
       MRS. DIBBLE. Yes, sir, he be stone-blind.
       MR. DIBBLE (addressing the mast). Yes, sir, I be stone-blind.
       INSPECTOR. That's a bad job. Take your ticket, Mrs. Dibble, and
       don't lose it, and pass on.
       Doctor taps Mr. Dibble on the eyebrow with his forefinger, and away
       they go.
       INSPECTOR (taking ticket again). Anastatia Weedle.
       ANASTATIA (a pretty girl, in a bright Garibaldi, this morning
       elected by universal suffrage the Beauty of the Ship). That is me,
       sir.
       INSPECTOR. Going alone, Anastatia?
       ANASTATIA (shaking her curls). I am with Mrs. Jobson, sir, but
       I've got separated for the moment.
       INSPECTOR. Oh! You are with the Jobsons? Quite right. That'll
       do, Miss Weedle. Don't lose your ticket.
       Away she goes, and joins the Jobsons who are waiting for her, and
       stoops and kisses Brigham Jobson--who appears to be considered too
       young for the purpose, by several Mormons rising twenty, who are
       looking on. Before her extensive skirts have departed from the
       casks, a decent widow stands there with four children, and so the
       roll goes.
       The faces of some of the Welsh people, among whom there were many
       old persons, were certainly the least intelligent. Some of these
       emigrants would have bungled sorely, but for the directing hand
       that was always ready. The intelligence here was unquestionably of
       a low order, and the heads were of a poor type. Generally the case
       was the reverse. There were many worn faces bearing traces of
       patient poverty and hard work, and there was great steadiness of
       purpose and much undemonstrative self-respect among this class. A
       few young men were going singly. Several girls were going, two or
       three together. These latter I found it very difficult to refer
       back, in my mind, to their relinquished homes and pursuits.
       Perhaps they were more like country milliners, and pupil teachers
       rather tawdrily dressed, than any other classes of young women. I
       noticed, among many little ornaments worn, more than one
       photograph-brooch of the Princess of Wales, and also of the late
       Prince Consort. Some single women of from thirty to forty, whom
       one might suppose to be embroiderers, or straw-bonnet-makers, were
       obviously going out in quest of husbands, as finer ladies go to
       India. That they had any distinct notions of a plurality of
       husbands or wives, I do not believe. To suppose the family groups
       of whom the majority of emigrants were composed, polygamically
       possessed, would be to suppose an absurdity, manifest to any one
       who saw the fathers and mothers.
       I should say (I had no means of ascertaining the fact) that most
       familiar kinds of handicraft trades were represented here. Farm-
       labourers, shepherds, and the like, had their full share of
       representation, but I doubt if they preponderated. It was
       interesting to see how the leading spirit in the family circle
       never failed to show itself, even in the simple process of
       answering to the names as they were called, and checking off the
       owners of the names. Sometimes it was the father, much oftener the
       mother, sometimes a quick little girl second or third in order of
       seniority. It seemed to occur for the first time to some heavy
       fathers, what large families they had; and their eyes rolled about,
       during the calling of the list, as if they half misdoubted some
       other family to have been smuggled into their own. Among all the
       fine handsome children, I observed but two with marks upon their
       necks that were probably scrofulous. Out of the whole number of
       emigrants, but one old woman was temporarily set aside by the
       doctor, on suspicion of fever; but even she afterwards obtained a
       clean bill of health.
       When all had 'passed,' and the afternoon began to wear on, a black
       box became visible on deck, which box was in charge of certain
       personages also in black, of whom only one had the conventional air
       of an itinerant preacher. This box contained a supply of hymn-
       books, neatly printed and got up, published at Liverpool, and also
       in London at the 'Latter-Day Saints' Book Depot, 30, Florence-
       street.' Some copies were handsomely bound; the plainer were the
       more in request, and many were bought. The title ran: 'Sacred
       Hymns and Spiritual Songs for the Church of Jesus Church of Latter-
       Day Saints.' The Preface, dated Manchester, 1840, ran thus:- 'The
       Saints in this country have been very desirous for a Hymn Book
       adapted to their faith and worship, that they might sing the truth
       with an understanding heart, and express their praise, joy, and
       gratitude in songs adapted to the New and Everlasting Covenant. In
       accordance with their wishes, we have selected the following
       volume, which we hope will prove acceptable until a greater variety
       can be added. With sentiments of high consideration and esteem, we
       subscribe ourselves your brethren in the New and Everlasting
       Covenant, BRIGHAM YOUNG, PARLEY P. PRATT, JOHN TAYLOR.' From this
       book--by no means explanatory to myself of the New and Everlasting
       Covenant, and not at all making my heart an understanding one on
       the subject of that mystery--a hymn was sung, which did not attract
       any great amount of attention, and was supported by a rather select
       circle. But the choir in the boat was very popular and pleasant;
       and there was to have been a Band, only the Cornet was late in
       coming on board. In the course of the afternoon, a mother appeared
       from shore, in search of her daughter, 'who had run away with the
       Mormons.' She received every assistance from the Inspector, but
       her daughter was not found to be on board. The saints did not seem
       to me, particularly interested in finding her.
       Towards five o'clock, the galley became full of tea-kettles, and an
       agreeable fragrance of tea pervaded the ship. There was no
       scrambling or jostling for the hot water, no ill humour, no
       quarrelling. As the Amazon was to sail with the next tide, and as
       it would not be high water before two o'clock in the morning, I
       left her with her tea in full action, and her idle Steam Tug lying
       by, deputing steam and smoke for the time being to the Tea-kettles.
       I afterwards learned that a Despatch was sent home by the captain
       before he struck out into the wide Atlantic, highly extolling the
       behaviour of these Emigrants, and the perfect order and propriety
       of all their social arrangements. What is in store for the poor
       people on the shores of the Great Salt Lake, what happy delusions
       they are labouring under now, on what miserable blindness their
       eyes may be opened then, I do not pretend to say. But I went on
       board their ship to bear testimony against them if they deserved
       it, as I fully believed they would; to my great astonishment they
       did not deserve it; and my predispositions and tendencies must not
       affect me as an honest witness. I went over the Amazon's side,
       feeling it impossible to deny that, so far, some remarkable
       influence had produced a remarkable result, which better known
       influences have often missed. *
       * After this Uncommercial Journey was printed, I happened to
       mention the experience it describes to Lord Houghton. That
       gentleman then showed me an article of his writing, in The
       Edinburgh Review for January, 1862, which is highly remarkable for
       its philosophical and literary research concerning these Latter-Day
       Saints. I find in it the following sentences:- 'The Select
       Committee of the House of Commons on emigrant ships for 1854
       summoned the Mormon agent and passenger-broker before it, and came
       to the conclusion that no ships under the provisions of the
       "Passengers Act" could be depended upon for comfort and security in
       the same degree as those under his administration. The Mormon ship
       is a Family under strong and accepted discipline, with every
       provision for comfort, decorum and internal peace.' _