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The Uncommercial Traveller
CHAPTER II - THE SHIPWRECK
Charles Dickens
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       _ Never had I seen a year going out, or going on, under quieter
       circumstances. Eighteen hundred and fifty-nine had but another day
       to live, and truly its end was Peace on that sea-shore that
       morning.
       So settled and orderly was everything seaward, in the bright light
       of the sun and under the transparent shadows of the clouds, that it
       was hard to imagine the bay otherwise, for years past or to come,
       than it was that very day. The Tug-steamer lying a little off the
       shore, the Lighter lying still nearer to the shore, the boat
       alongside the Lighter, the regularly-turning windlass aboard the
       Lighter, the methodical figures at work, all slowly and regularly
       heaving up and down with the breathing of the sea, all seemed as
       much a part of the nature of the place as the tide itself. The
       tide was on the flow, and had been for some two hours and a half;
       there was a slight obstruction in the sea within a few yards of my
       feet: as if the stump of a tree, with earth enough about it to
       keep it from lying horizontally on the water, had slipped a little
       from the land--and as I stood upon the beach and observed it
       dimpling the light swell that was coming in, I cast a stone over
       it.
       So orderly, so quiet, so regular--the rising and falling of the
       Tug-steamer, the Lighter, and the boat--the turning of the
       windlass--the coming in of the tide--that I myself seemed, to my
       own thinking, anything but new to the spot. Yet, I had never seen
       it in my life, a minute before, and had traversed two hundred miles
       to get at it. That very morning I had come bowling down, and
       struggling up, hill-country roads; looking back at snowy summits;
       meeting courteous peasants well to do, driving fat pigs and cattle
       to market: noting the neat and thrifty dwellings, with their
       unusual quantity of clean white linen, drying on the bushes; having
       windy weather suggested by every cotter's little rick, with its
       thatch straw-ridged and extra straw-ridged into overlapping
       compartments like the back of a rhinoceros. Had I not given a lift
       of fourteen miles to the Coast-guardsman (kit and all), who was
       coming to his spell of duty there, and had we not just now parted
       company? So it was; but the journey seemed to glide down into the
       placid sea, with other chafe and trouble, and for the moment
       nothing was so calmly and monotonously real under the sunlight as
       the gentle rising and falling of the water with its freight, the
       regular turning of the windlass aboard the Lighter, and the slight
       obstruction so very near my feet.
       O reader, haply turning this page by the fireside at Home, and
       hearing the night wind rumble in the chimney, that slight
       obstruction was the uppermost fragment of the Wreck of the Royal
       Charter, Australian trader and passenger ship, Homeward bound, that
       struck here on the terrible morning of the twenty-sixth of this
       October, broke into three parts, went down with her treasure of at
       least five hundred human lives, and has never stirred since!
       From which point, or from which, she drove ashore, stern foremost;
       on which side, or on which, she passed the little Island in the
       bay, for ages henceforth to be aground certain yards outside her;
       these are rendered bootless questions by the darkness of that night
       and the darkness of death. Here she went down.
       Even as I stood on the beach with the words 'Here she went down!'
       in my ears, a diver in his grotesque dress, dipped heavily over the
       side of the boat alongside the Lighter, and dropped to the bottom.
       On the shore by the water's edge, was a rough tent, made of
       fragments of wreck, where other divers and workmen sheltered
       themselves, and where they had kept Christmas-day with rum and
       roast beef, to the destruction of their frail chimney. Cast up
       among the stones and boulders of the beach, were great spars of the
       lost vessel, and masses of iron twisted by the fury of the sea into
       the strangest forms. The timber was already bleached and iron
       rusted, and even these objects did no violence to the prevailing
       air the whole scene wore, of having been exactly the same for years
       and years.
       Yet, only two short months had gone, since a man, living on the
       nearest hill-top overlooking the sea, being blown out of bed at
       about daybreak by the wind that had begun to strip his roof off,
       and getting upon a ladder with his nearest neighbour to construct
       some temporary device for keeping his house over his head, saw from
       the ladder's elevation as he looked down by chance towards the
       shore, some dark troubled object close in with the land. And he
       and the other, descending to the beach, and finding the sea
       mercilessly beating over a great broken ship, had clambered up the
       stony ways, like staircases without stairs, on which the wild
       village hangs in little clusters, as fruit hangs on boughs, and had
       given the alarm. And so, over the hill-slopes, and past the
       waterfall, and down the gullies where the land drains off into the
       ocean, the scattered quarrymen and fishermen inhabiting that part
       of Wales had come running to the dismal sight--their clergyman
       among them. And as they stood in the leaden morning, stricken with
       pity, leaning hard against the wind, their breath and vision often
       failing as the sleet and spray rushed at them from the ever forming
       and dissolving mountains of sea, and as the wool which was a part
       of the vessel's cargo blew in with the salt foam and remained upon
       the land when the foam melted, they saw the ship's life-boat put
       off from one of the heaps of wreck; and first, there were three men
       in her, and in a moment she capsized, and there were but two; and
       again, she was struck by a vast mass of water, and there was but
       one; and again, she was thrown bottom upward, and that one, with
       his arm struck through the broken planks and waving as if for the
       help that could never reach him, went down into the deep.
       It was the clergyman himself from whom I heard this, while I stood
       on the shore, looking in his kind wholesome face as it turned to
       the spot where the boat had been. The divers were down then, and
       busy. They were 'lifting' to-day the gold found yesterday--some
       five-and-twenty thousand pounds. Of three hundred and fifty
       thousand pounds' worth of gold, three hundred thousand pounds'
       worth, in round numbers, was at that time recovered. The great
       bulk of the remainder was surely and steadily coming up. Some loss
       of sovereigns there would be, of course; indeed, at first
       sovereigns had drifted in with the sand, and been scattered far and
       wide over the beach, like sea-shells; but most other golden
       treasure would be found. As it was brought up, it went aboard the
       Tug-steamer, where good account was taken of it. So tremendous had
       the force of the sea been when it broke the ship, that it had
       beaten one great ingot of gold, deep into a strong and heavy piece
       of her solid iron-work: in which, also, several loose sovereigns
       that the ingot had swept in before it, had been found, as firmly
       embedded as though the iron had been liquid when they were forced
       there. It had been remarked of such bodies come ashore, too, as
       had been seen by scientific men, that they had been stunned to
       death, and not suffocated. Observation, both of the internal
       change that had been wrought in them, and of their external
       expression, showed death to have been thus merciful and easy. The
       report was brought, while I was holding such discourse on the
       beach, that no more bodies had come ashore since last night. It
       began to be very doubtful whether many more would be thrown up,
       until the north-east winds of the early spring set in. Moreover, a
       great number of the passengers, and particularly the second-class
       women-passengers, were known to have been in the middle of the ship
       when she parted, and thus the collapsing wreck would have fallen
       upon them after yawning open, and would keep them down. A diver
       made known, even then, that he had come upon the body of a man, and
       had sought to release it from a great superincumbent weight; but
       that, finding he could not do so without mutilating the remains, he
       had left it where it was.
       It was the kind and wholesome face I have made mention of as being
       then beside me, that I had purposed to myself to see, when I left
       home for Wales. I had heard of that clergyman, as having buried
       many scores of the shipwrecked people; of his having opened his
       house and heart to their agonised friends; of his having used a
       most sweet and patient diligence for weeks and weeks, in the
       performance of the forlornest offices that Man can render to his
       kind; of his having most tenderly and thoroughly devoted himself to
       the dead, and to those who were sorrowing for the dead. I had said
       to myself, 'In the Christmas season of the year, I should like to
       see that man!' And he had swung the gate of his little garden in
       coming out to meet me, not half an hour ago.
       So cheerful of spirit and guiltless of affectation, as true
       practical Christianity ever is! I read more of the New Testament
       in the fresh frank face going up the village beside me, in five
       minutes, than I have read in anathematising discourses (albeit put
       to press with enormous flourishing of trumpets), in all my life. I
       heard more of the Sacred Book in the cordial voice that had nothing
       to say about its owner, than in all the would-be celestial pairs of
       bellows that have ever blown conceit at me.
       We climbed towards the little church, at a cheery pace, among the
       loose stones, the deep mud, the wet coarse grass, the outlying
       water, and other obstructions from which frost and snow had lately
       thawed. It was a mistake (my friend was glad to tell me, on the
       way) to suppose that the peasantry had shown any superstitious
       avoidance of the drowned; on the whole, they had done very well,
       and had assisted readily. Ten shillings had been paid for the
       bringing of each body up to the church, but the way was steep, and
       a horse and cart (in which it was wrapped in a sheet) were
       necessary, and three or four men, and, all things considered, it
       was not a great price. The people were none the richer for the
       wreck, for it was the season of the herring-shoal--and who could
       cast nets for fish, and find dead men and women in the draught?
       He had the church keys in his hand, and opened the churchyard gate,
       and opened the church door; and we went in.
       It is a little church of great antiquity; there is reason to
       believe that some church has occupied the spot, these thousand
       years or more. The pulpit was gone, and other things usually
       belonging to the church were gone, owing to its living congregation
       having deserted it for the neighbouring school-room, and yielded it
       up to the dead. The very Commandments had been shouldered out of
       their places, in the bringing in of the dead; the black wooden
       tables on which they were painted, were askew, and on the stone
       pavement below them, and on the stone pavement all over the church,
       were the marks and stains where the drowned had been laid down.
       The eye, with little or no aid from the imagination, could yet see
       how the bodies had been turned, and where the head had been and
       where the feet. Some faded traces of the wreck of the Australian
       ship may be discernible on the stone pavement of this little
       church, hundreds of years hence, when the digging for gold in
       Australia shall have long and long ceased out of the land.
       Forty-four shipwrecked men and women lay here at one time, awaiting
       burial. Here, with weeping and wailing in every room of his house,
       my companion worked alone for hours, solemnly surrounded by eyes
       that could not see him, and by lips that could not speak to him,
       patiently examining the tattered clothing, cutting off buttons,
       hair, marks from linen, anything that might lead to subsequent
       identification, studying faces, looking for a scar, a bent finger,
       a crooked toe, comparing letters sent to him with the ruin about
       him. 'My dearest brother had bright grey eyes and a pleasant
       smile,' one sister wrote. O poor sister! well for you to be far
       from here, and keep that as your last remembrance of him!
       The ladies of the clergyman's family, his wife and two sisters-in-
       law, came in among the bodies often. It grew to be the business of
       their lives to do so. Any new arrival of a bereaved woman would
       stimulate their pity to compare the description brought, with the
       dread realities. Sometimes, they would go back able to say, 'I
       have found him,' or, 'I think she lies there.' Perhaps, the
       mourner, unable to bear the sight of all that lay in the church,
       would be led in blindfold. Conducted to the spot with many
       compassionate words, and encouraged to look, she would say, with a
       piercing cry, 'This is my boy!' and drop insensible on the
       insensible figure.
       He soon observed that in some cases of women, the identification of
       persons, though complete, was quite at variance with the marks upon
       the linen; this led him to notice that even the marks upon the
       linen were sometimes inconsistent with one another; and thus he
       came to understand that they had dressed in great haste and
       agitation, and that their clothes had become mixed together. The
       identification of men by their dress, was rendered extremely
       difficult, in consequence of a large proportion of them being
       dressed alike--in clothes of one kind, that is to say, supplied by
       slopsellers and outfitters, and not made by single garments but by
       hundreds. Many of the men were bringing over parrots, and had
       receipts upon them for the price of the birds; others had bills of
       exchange in their pockets, or in belts. Some of these documents,
       carefully unwrinkled and dried, were little less fresh in
       appearance that day, than the present page will be under ordinary
       circumstances, after having been opened three or four times.
       In that lonely place, it had not been easy to obtain even such
       common commodities in towns, as ordinary disinfectants. Pitch had
       been burnt in the church, as the readiest thing at hand, and the
       frying-pan in which it had bubbled over a brazier of coals was
       still there, with its ashes. Hard by the Communion-Table, were
       some boots that had been taken off the drowned and preserved--a
       gold-digger's boot, cut down the leg for its removal--a trodden-
       down man's ankle-boot with a buff cloth top--and others--soaked and
       sandy, weedy and salt.
       From the church, we passed out into the churchyard. Here, there
       lay, at that time, one hundred and forty-five bodies, that had come
       ashore from the wreck. He had buried them, when not identified, in
       graves containing four each. He had numbered each body in a
       register describing it, and had placed a corresponding number on
       each coffin, and over each grave. Identified bodies he had buried
       singly, in private graves, in another part of the church-yard.
       Several bodies had been exhumed from the graves of four, as
       relatives had come from a distance and seen his register; and, when
       recognised, these have been reburied in private graves, so that the
       mourners might erect separate headstones over the remains. In all
       such cases he had performed the funeral service a second time, and
       the ladies of his house had attended. There had been no offence in
       the poor ashes when they were brought again to the light of day;
       the beneficent Earth had already absorbed it. The drowned were
       buried in their clothes. To supply the great sudden demand for
       coffins, he had got all the neighbouring people handy at tools, to
       work the livelong day, and Sunday likewise. The coffins were
       neatly formed;--I had seen two, waiting for occupants, under the
       lee of the ruined walls of a stone hut on the beach, within call of
       the tent where the Christmas Feast was held. Similarly, one of the
       graves for four was lying open and ready, here, in the churchyard.
       So much of the scanty space was already devoted to the wrecked
       people, that the villagers had begun to express uneasy doubts
       whether they themselves could lie in their own ground, with their
       forefathers and descendants, by-and-by. The churchyard being but a
       step from the clergyman's dwelling-house, we crossed to the latter;
       the white surplice was hanging up near the door ready to be put on
       at any time, for a funeral service.
       The cheerful earnestness of this good Christian minister was as
       consolatory, as the circumstances out of which it shone were sad.
       I never have seen anything more delightfully genuine than the calm
       dismissal by himself and his household of all they had undergone,
       as a simple duty that was quietly done and ended. In speaking of
       it, they spoke of it with great compassion for the bereaved; but
       laid no stress upon their own hard share in those weary weeks,
       except as it had attached many people to them as friends, and
       elicited many touching expressions of gratitude. This clergyman's
       brother--himself the clergyman of two adjoining parishes, who had
       buried thirty-four of the bodies in his own churchyard, and who had
       done to them all that his brother had done as to the larger number-
       -must be understood as included in the family. He was there, with
       his neatly arranged papers, and made no more account of his trouble
       than anybody else did. Down to yesterday's post outward, my
       clergyman alone had written one thousand and seventy-five letters
       to relatives and friends of the lost people. In the absence of
       self-assertion, it was only through my now and then delicately
       putting a question as the occasion arose, that I became informed of
       these things. It was only when I had remarked again and again, in
       the church, on the awful nature of the scene of death he had been
       required so closely to familiarise himself with for the soothing of
       the living, that he had casually said, without the least abatement
       of his cheerfulness, 'indeed, it had rendered him unable for a time
       to eat or drink more than a little coffee now and then, and a piece
       of bread.'
       In this noble modesty, in this beautiful simplicity, in this serene
       avoidance of the least attempt to 'improve' an occasion which might
       be supposed to have sunk of its own weight into my heart, I seemed
       to have happily come, in a few steps, from the churchyard with its
       open grave, which was the type of Death, to the Christian dwelling
       side by side with it, which was the type of Resurrection. I never
       shall think of the former, without the latter. The two will always
       rest side by side in my memory. If I had lost any one dear to me
       in this unfortunate ship, if I had made a voyage from Australia to
       look at the grave in the churchyard, I should go away, thankful to
       GOD that that house was so close to it, and that its shadow by day
       and its domestic lights by night fell upon the earth in which its
       Master had so tenderly laid my dear one's head.
       The references that naturally arose out of our conversation, to the
       descriptions sent down of shipwrecked persons, and to the gratitude
       of relations and friends, made me very anxious to see some of those
       letters. I was presently seated before a shipwreck of papers, all
       bordered with black, and from them I made the following few
       extracts.
       A mother writes:
       REVEREND SIR. Amongst the many who perished on your shore was
       numbered my beloved son. I was only just recovering from a severe
       illness, and this fearful affliction has caused a relapse, so that
       I am unable at present to go to identify the remains of the loved
       and lost. My darling son would have been sixteen on Christmas-day
       next. He was a most amiable and obedient child, early taught the
       way of salvation. We fondly hoped that as a British seaman he
       might be an ornament to his profession, but, 'it is well;' I feel
       assured my dear boy is now with the redeemed. Oh, he did not wish
       to go this last voyage! On the fifteenth of October, I received a
       letter from him from Melbourne, date August twelfth; he wrote in
       high spirits, and in conclusion he says: 'Pray for a fair breeze,
       dear mamma, and I'll not forget to whistle for it! and, God
       permitting, I shall see you and all my little pets again. Good-
       bye, dear mother--good-bye, dearest parents. Good-bye, dear
       brother.' Oh, it was indeed an eternal farewell. I do not
       apologise for thus writing you, for oh, my heart is so very
       sorrowful.
       A husband writes:
       MY DEAR KIND SIR. Will you kindly inform me whether there are any
       initials upon the ring and guard you have in possession, found, as
       the Standard says, last Tuesday? Believe me, my dear sir, when I
       say that I cannot express my deep gratitude in words sufficiently
       for your kindness to me on that fearful and appalling day. Will
       you tell me what I can do for you, and will you write me a
       consoling letter to prevent my mind from going astray?
       A widow writes:
       Left in such a state as I am, my friends and I thought it best that
       my dear husband should be buried where he lies, and, much as I
       should have liked to have had it otherwise, I must submit. I feel,
       from all I have heard of you, that you will see it done decently
       and in order. Little does it signify to us, when the soul has
       departed, where this poor body lies, but we who are left behind
       would do all we can to show how we loved them. This is denied me,
       but it is God's hand that afflicts us, and I try to submit. Some
       day I may be able to visit the spot, and see where he lies, and
       erect a simple stone to his memory. Oh! it will be long, long
       before I forget that dreadful night! Is there such a thing in the
       vicinity, or any shop in Bangor, to which I could send for a small
       picture of Moelfra or Llanallgo church, a spot now sacred to me?
       Another widow writes:
       I have received your letter this morning, and do thank you most
       kindly for the interest you have taken about my dear husband, as
       well for the sentiments yours contains, evincing the spirit of a
       Christian who can sympathise with those who, like myself, are
       broken down with grief.
       May God bless and sustain you, and all in connection with you, in
       this great trial. Time may roll on and bear all its sons away, but
       your name as a disinterested person will stand in history, and, as
       successive years pass, many a widow will think of your noble
       conduct, and the tears of gratitude flow down many a cheek, the
       tribute of a thankful heart, when other things are forgotten for
       ever.
       A father writes:
       I am at a loss to find words to sufficiently express my gratitude
       to you for your kindness to my son Richard upon the melancholy
       occasion of his visit to his dear brother's body, and also for your
       ready attention in pronouncing our beautiful burial service over my
       poor unfortunate son's remains. God grant that your prayers over
       him may reach the Mercy Seat, and that his soul may be received
       (through Christ's intercession) into heaven!
       His dear mother begs me to convey to you her heartfelt thanks.
       Those who were received at the clergyman's house, write thus, after
       leaving it:
       DEAR AND NEVER-TO-BE-FORGOTTEN FRIENDS. I arrived here yesterday
       morning without accident, and am about to proceed to my home by
       railway.
       I am overpowered when I think of you and your hospitable home. No
       words could speak language suited to my heart. I refrain. God
       reward you with the same measure you have meted with!
       I enumerate no names, but embrace you all.
       MY BELOVED FRIENDS. This is the first day that I have been able to
       leave my bedroom since I returned, which will explain the reason of
       my not writing sooner.
       If I could only have had my last melancholy hope realised in
       recovering the body of my beloved and lamented son, I should have
       returned home somewhat comforted, and I think I could then have
       been comparatively resigned.
       I fear now there is but little prospect, and I mourn as one without
       hope.
       The only consolation to my distressed mind is in having been so
       feelingly allowed by you to leave the matter in your hands, by whom
       I well know that everything will be done that can be, according to
       arrangements made before I left the scene of the awful catastrophe,
       both as to the identification of my dear son, and also his
       interment.
       I feel most anxious to hear whether anything fresh has transpired
       since I left you; will you add another to the many deep obligations
       I am under to you by writing to me? And should the body of my dear
       and unfortunate son be identified, let me hear from you
       immediately, and I will come again.
       Words cannot express the gratitude I feel I owe to you all for your
       benevolent aid, your kindness, and your sympathy.
       MY DEARLY BELOVED FRIENDS. I arrived in safety at my house
       yesterday, and a night's rest has restored and tranquillised me. I
       must again repeat, that language has no words by which I can
       express my sense of obligation to you. You are enshrined in my
       heart of hearts.
       I have seen him! and can now realise my misfortune more than I have
       hitherto been able to do. Oh, the bitterness of the cup I drink!
       But I bow submissive. God MUST have done right. I do not want to
       feel less, but to acquiesce more simply.
       There were some Jewish passengers on board the Royal Charter, and
       the gratitude of the Jewish people is feelingly expressed in the
       following letter bearing date from 'the office of the Chief Rabbi:'
       REVEREND SIR. I cannot refrain from expressing to you my heartfelt
       thanks on behalf of those of my flock whose relatives have
       unfortunately been among those who perished at the late wreck of
       the Royal Charter. You have, indeed, like Boaz, 'not left off your
       kindness to the living and the dead.'
       You have not alone acted kindly towards the living by receiving
       them hospitably at your house, and energetically assisting them in
       their mournful duty, but also towards the dead, by exerting
       yourself to have our co-religionists buried in our ground, and
       according to our rites. May our heavenly Father reward you for
       your acts of humanity and true philanthropy!
       The 'Old Hebrew congregation of Liverpool' thus express themselves
       through their secretary:
       REVEREND SIR. The wardens of this congregation have learned with
       great pleasure that, in addition to those indefatigable exertions,
       at the scene of the late disaster to the Royal Charter, which have
       received universal recognition, you have very benevolently employed
       your valuable efforts to assist such members of our faith as have
       sought the bodies of lost friends to give them burial in our
       consecrated grounds, with the observances and rites prescribed by
       the ordinances of our religion.
       The wardens desire me to take the earliest available opportunity to
       offer to you, on behalf of our community, the expression of their
       warm acknowledgments and grateful thanks, and their sincere wishes
       for your continued welfare and prosperity.
       A Jewish gentleman writes:
       REVEREND AND DEAR SIR. I take the opportunity of thanking you
       right earnestly for the promptness you displayed in answering my
       note with full particulars concerning my much lamented brother, and
       I also herein beg to express my sincere regard for the willingness
       you displayed and for the facility you afforded for getting the
       remains of my poor brother exhumed. It has been to us a most
       sorrowful and painful event, but when we meet with such friends as
       yourself, it in a measure, somehow or other, abates that mental
       anguish, and makes the suffering so much easier to be borne.
       Considering the circumstances connected with my poor brother's
       fate, it does, indeed, appear a hard one. He had been away in all
       seven years; he returned four years ago to see his family. He was
       then engaged to a very amiable young lady. He had been very
       successful abroad, and was now returning to fulfil his sacred vow;
       he brought all his property with him in gold uninsured. We heard
       from him when the ship stopped at Queenstown, when he was in the
       highest of hope, and in a few short hours afterwards all was washed
       away.
       Mournful in the deepest degree, but too sacred for quotation here,
       were the numerous references to those miniatures of women worn
       round the necks of rough men (and found there after death), those
       locks of hair, those scraps of letters, those many many slight
       memorials of hidden tenderness. One man cast up by the sea bore
       about him, printed on a perforated lace card, the following
       singular (and unavailing) charm:
       A BLESSING.
       May the blessing of God await thee. May the sun of glory shine
       around thy bed; and may the gates of plenty, honour, and happiness
       be ever open to thee. May no sorrow distress thy days; may no
       grief disturb thy nights. May the pillow of peace kiss thy cheek,
       and the pleasures of imagination attend thy dreams; and when length
       of years makes thee tired of earthly joys, and the curtain of death
       gently closes around thy last sleep of human existence, may the
       Angel of God attend thy bed, and take care that the expiring lamp
       of life shall not receive one rude blast to hasten on its
       extinction.
       A sailor had these devices on his right arm. 'Our Saviour on the
       Cross, the forehead of the Crucifix and the vesture stained red; on
       the lower part of the arm, a man and woman; on one side of the
       Cross, the appearance of a half moon, with a face; on the other
       side, the sun; on the top of the Cross, the letters I.H.S.; on the
       left arm, a man and woman dancing, with an effort to delineate the
       female's dress; under which, initials.' Another seaman 'had, on
       the lower part of the right arm, the device of a sailor and a
       female; the man holding the Union Jack with a streamer, the folds
       of which waved over her head, and the end of it was held in her
       hand. On the upper part of the arm, a device of Our Lord on the
       Cross, with stars surrounding the head of the Cross, and one large
       star on the side in Indian Ink. On the left arm, a flag, a true
       lover's knot, a face, and initials.' This tattooing was found
       still plain, below the discoloured outer surface of a mutilated
       arm, when such surface was carefully scraped away with a knife. It
       is not improbable that the perpetuation of this marking custom
       among seamen, may be referred back to their desire to be
       identified, if drowned and flung ashore.
       It was some time before I could sever myself from the many
       interesting papers on the table, and then I broke bread and drank
       wine with the kind family before I left them. As I brought the
       Coast-guard down, so I took the Postman back, with his leathern
       wallet, walking-stick, bugle, and terrier dog. Many a heart-broken
       letter had he brought to the Rectory House within two months many;
       a benignantly painstaking answer had he carried back.
       As I rode along, I thought of the many people, inhabitants of this
       mother country, who would make pilgrimages to the little churchyard
       in the years to come; I thought of the many people in Australia,
       who would have an interest in such a shipwreck, and would find
       their way here when they visit the Old World; I thought of the
       writers of all the wreck of letters I had left upon the table; and
       I resolved to place this little record where it stands.
       Convocations, Conferences, Diocesan Epistles, and the like, will do
       a great deal for Religion, I dare say, and Heaven send they may!
       but I doubt if they will ever do their Master's service half so
       well, in all the time they last, as the Heavens have seen it done
       in this bleak spot upon the rugged coast of Wales.
       Had I lost the friend of my life, in the wreck of the Royal
       Charter; had I lost my betrothed, the more than friend of my life;
       had I lost my maiden daughter, had I lost my hopeful boy, had I
       lost my little child; I would kiss the hands that worked so busily
       and gently in the church, and say, 'None better could have touched
       the form, though it had lain at home.' I could be sure of it, I
       could be thankful for it: I could be content to leave the grave
       near the house the good family pass in and out of every day,
       undisturbed, in the little churchyard where so many are so
       strangely brought together.
       Without the name of the clergyman to whom--I hope, not without
       carrying comfort to some heart at some time--I have referred, my
       reference would be as nothing. He is the Reverend Stephen Roose
       Hughes, of Llanallgo, near Moelfra, Anglesey. His brother is the
       Reverend Hugh Robert Hughes, of Penrhos, Alligwy. _