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The Uncommercial Traveller
CHAPTER XII - DULLBOROUGH TOWN
Charles Dickens
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       _ It lately happened that I found myself rambling about the scenes
       among which my earliest days were passed; scenes from which I
       departed when I was a child, and which I did not revisit until I
       was a man. This is no uncommon chance, but one that befalls some
       of us any day; perhaps it may not be quite uninteresting to compare
       notes with the reader respecting an experience so familiar and a
       journey so uncommercial.
       I call my boyhood's home (and I feel like a Tenor in an English
       Opera when I mention it) Dullborough. Most of us come from
       Dullborough who come from a country town.
       As I left Dullborough in the days when there were no railroads in
       the land, I left it in a stage-coach. Through all the years that
       have since passed, have I ever lost the smell of the damp straw in
       which I was packed--like game--and forwarded, carriage paid, to the
       Cross Keys, Wood-street, Cheapside, London? There was no other
       inside passenger, and I consumed my sandwiches in solitude and
       dreariness, and it rained hard all the way, and I thought life
       sloppier than I had expected to find it.
       With this tender remembrance upon me, I was cavalierly shunted back
       into Dullborough the other day, by train. My ticket had been
       previously collected, like my taxes, and my shining new portmanteau
       had had a great plaster stuck upon it, and I had been defied by Act
       of Parliament to offer an objection to anything that was done to
       it, or me, under a penalty of not less than forty shillings or more
       than five pounds, compoundable for a term of imprisonment. When I
       had sent my disfigured property on to the hotel, I began to look
       about me; and the first discovery I made, was, that the Station had
       swallowed up the playing-field.
       It was gone. The two beautiful hawthorn-trees, the hedge, the
       turf, and all those buttercups and daisies, had given place to the
       stoniest of jolting roads: while, beyond the Station, an ugly dark
       monster of a tunnel kept its jaws open, as if it had swallowed them
       and were ravenous for more destruction. The coach that had carried
       me away, was melodiously called Timpson's Blue-Eyed Maid, and
       belonged to Timpson, at the coach-office up-street; the locomotive
       engine that had brought me back, was called severely No. 97, and
       belonged to S.E.R., and was spitting ashes and hot water over the
       blighted ground.
       When I had been let out at the platform-door, like a prisoner whom
       his turnkey grudgingly released, I looked in again over the low
       wall, at the scene of departed glories. Here, in the haymaking
       time, had I been delivered from the dungeons of Seringapatam, an
       immense pile (of haycock), by my own countrymen, the victorious
       British (boy next door and his two cousins), and had been
       recognised with ecstasy by my affianced one (Miss Green), who had
       come all the way from England (second house in the terrace) to
       ransom me, and marry me. Here, had I first heard in confidence,
       from one whose father was greatly connected, being under
       Government, of the existence of a terrible banditti, called 'The
       Radicals,' whose principles were, that the Prince Regent wore
       stays, and that nobody had a right to any salary, and that the army
       and navy ought to be put down--horrors at which I trembled in my
       bed, after supplicating that the Radicals might be speedily taken
       and hanged. Here, too, had we, the small boys of Boles's, had that
       cricket match against the small boys of Coles's, when Boles and
       Coles had actually met upon the ground, and when, instead of
       instantly hitting out at one another with the utmost fury, as we
       had all hoped and expected, those sneaks had said respectively, 'I
       hope Mrs. Boles is well,' and 'I hope Mrs. Coles and the baby are
       doing charmingly.' Could it be that, after all this, and much
       more, the Playing-field was a Station, and No. 97 expectorated
       boiling water and redhot cinders on it, and the whole belonged by
       Act of Parliament to S.E.R.?
       As it could be, and was, I left the place with a heavy heart for a
       walk all over the town. And first of Timpson's up-street. When I
       departed from Dullborough in the strawy arms of Timpson's Blue-Eyed
       Maid, Timpson's was a moderate-sized coach-office (in fact, a
       little coach-office), with an oval transparency in the window,
       which looked beautiful by night, representing one of Timpson's
       coaches in the act of passing a milestone on the London road with
       great velocity, completely full inside and out, and all the
       passengers dressed in the first style of fashion, and enjoying
       themselves tremendously. I found no such place as Timpson's now--
       no such bricks and rafters, not to mention the name--no such
       edifice on the teeming earth. Pickford had come and knocked
       Timpson's down. Pickford had not only knocked Timpson's down, but
       had knocked two or three houses down on each side of Timpson's, and
       then had knocked the whole into one great establishment with a pair
       of big gates, in and out of which, his (Pickford's) waggons are, in
       these days, always rattling, with their drivers sitting up so high,
       that they look in at the second-floor windows of the old-fashioned
       houses in the High-street as they shake the town. I have not the
       honour of Pickford's acquaintance, but I felt that he had done me
       an injury, not to say committed an act of boyslaughter, in running
       over my Childhood in this rough manner; and if ever I meet Pickford
       driving one of his own monsters, and smoking a pipe the while
       (which is the custom of his men), he shall know by the expression
       of my eye, if it catches his, that there is something wrong between
       us.
       Moreover, I felt that Pickford had no right to come rushing into
       Dullborough and deprive the town of a public picture. He is not
       Napoleon Bonaparte. When he took down the transparent stage-coach,
       he ought to have given the town a transparent van. With a gloomy
       conviction that Pickford is wholly utilitarian and unimaginative, I
       proceeded on my way.
       It is a mercy I have not a red and green lamp and a night-bell at
       my door, for in my very young days I was taken to so many lyings-in
       that I wonder I escaped becoming a professional martyr to them in
       after-life. I suppose I had a very sympathetic nurse, with a large
       circle of married acquaintance. However that was, as I continued
       my walk through Dullborough, I found many houses to be solely
       associated in my mind with this particular interest. At one little
       greengrocer's shop, down certain steps from the street, I remember
       to have waited on a lady who had had four children (I am afraid to
       write five, though I fully believe it was five) at a birth. This
       meritorious woman held quite a reception in her room on the morning
       when I was introduced there, and the sight of the house brought
       vividly to my mind how the four (five) deceased young people lay,
       side by side, on a clean cloth on a chest of drawers; reminding me
       by a homely association, which I suspect their complexion to have
       assisted, of pigs' feet as they are usually displayed at a neat
       tripe-shop. Hot candle was handed round on the occasion, and I
       further remembered as I stood contemplating the greengrocer's, that
       a subscription was entered into among the company, which became
       extremely alarming to my consciousness of having pocket-money on my
       person. This fact being known to my conductress, whoever she was,
       I was earnestly exhorted to contribute, but resolutely declined:
       therein disgusting the company, who gave me to understand that I
       must dismiss all expectations of going to Heaven.
       How does it happen that when all else is change wherever one goes,
       there yet seem, in every place, to be some few people who never
       alter? As the sight of the greengrocer's house recalled these
       trivial incidents of long ago, the identical greengrocer appeared
       on the steps, with his hands in his pockets, and leaning his
       shoulder against the door-post, as my childish eyes had seen him
       many a time; indeed, there was his old mark on the door-post yet,
       as if his shadow had become a fixture there. It was he himself; he
       might formerly have been an old-looking young man, or he might now
       be a young-looking old man, but there he was. In walking along the
       street, I had as yet looked in vain for a familiar face, or even a
       transmitted face; here was the very greengrocer who had been
       weighing and handling baskets on the morning of the reception. As
       he brought with him a dawning remembrance that he had had no
       proprietary interest in those babies, I crossed the road, and
       accosted him on the subject. He was not in the least excited or
       gratified, or in any way roused, by the accuracy of my
       recollection, but said, Yes, summut out of the common--he didn't
       remember how many it was (as if half-a-dozen babes either way made
       no difference)--had happened to a Mrs. What's-her-name, as once
       lodged there--but he didn't call it to mind, particular. Nettled
       by this phlegmatic conduct, I informed him that I had left the town
       when I was a child. He slowly returned, quite unsoftened, and not
       without a sarcastic kind of complacency, HAD I? Ah! And did I
       find it had got on tolerably well without me? Such is the
       difference (I thought, when I had left him a few hundred yards
       behind, and was by so much in a better temper) between going away
       from a place and remaining in it. I had no right, I reflected, to
       be angry with the greengrocer for his want of interest, I was
       nothing to him: whereas he was the town, the cathedral, the
       bridge, the river, my childhood, and a large slice of my life, to
       me.
       Of course the town had shrunk fearfully, since I was a child there.
       I had entertained the impression that the High-street was at least
       as wide as Regent-street, London, or the Italian Boulevard at
       Paris. I found it little better than a lane. There was a public
       clock in it, which I had supposed to be the finest clock in the
       world: whereas it now turned out to be as inexpressive, moon-
       faced, and weak a clock as ever I saw. It belonged to a Town Hall,
       where I had seen an Indian (who I now suppose wasn't an Indian)
       swallow a sword (which I now suppose he didn't). The edifice had
       appeared to me in those days so glorious a structure, that I had
       set it up in my mind as the model on which the Genie of the Lamp
       built the palace for Aladdin. A mean little brick heap, like a
       demented chapel, with a few yawning persons in leather gaiters, and
       in the last extremity for something to do, lounging at the door
       with their hands in their pockets, and calling themselves a Corn
       Exchange!
       The Theatre was in existence, I found, on asking the fishmonger,
       who had a compact show of stock in his window, consisting of a sole
       and a quart of shrimps--and I resolved to comfort my mind by going
       to look at it. Richard the Third, in a very uncomfortable cloak,
       had first appeared to me there, and had made my heart leap with
       terror by backing up against the stage-box in which I was posted,
       while struggling for life against the virtuous Richmond. It was
       within those walls that I had learnt as from a page of English
       history, how that wicked King slept in war-time on a sofa much too
       short for him, and how fearfully his conscience troubled his boots.
       There, too, had I first seen the funny countryman, but countryman
       of noble principles, in a flowered waistcoat, crunch up his little
       hat and throw it on the ground, and pull off his coat, saying, 'Dom
       thee, squire, coom on with thy fistes then!' At which the lovely
       young woman who kept company with him (and who went out gleaning,
       in a narrow white muslin apron with five beautiful bars of five
       different-coloured ribbons across it) was so frightened for his
       sake, that she fainted away. Many wondrous secrets of Nature had I
       come to the knowledge of in that sanctuary: of which not the least
       terrific were, that the witches in Macbeth bore an awful
       resemblance to the Thanes and other proper inhabitants of Scotland;
       and that the good King Duncan couldn't rest in his grave, but was
       constantly coming out of it and calling himself somebody else. To
       the Theatre, therefore, I repaired for consolation. But I found
       very little, for it was in a bad and declining way. A dealer in
       wine and bottled beer had already squeezed his trade into the box-
       office, and the theatrical money was taken--when it came--in a kind
       of meat-safe in the passage. The dealer in wine and bottled beer
       must have insinuated himself under the stage too; for he announced
       that he had various descriptions of alcoholic drinks 'in the wood,'
       and there was no possible stowage for the wood anywhere else.
       Evidently, he was by degrees eating the establishment away to the
       core, and would soon have sole possession of it. It was To Let,
       and hopelessly so, for its old purposes; and there had been no
       entertainment within its walls for a long time except a Panorama;
       and even that had been announced as 'pleasingly instructive,' and I
       know too well the fatal meaning and the leaden import of those
       terrible expressions. No, there was no comfort in the Theatre. It
       was mysteriously gone, like my own youth. Unlike my own youth, it
       might be coming back some day; but there was little promise of it.
       As the town was placarded with references to the Dullborough
       Mechanics' Institution, I thought I would go and look at that
       establishment next. There had been no such thing in the town, in
       my young day, and it occurred to me that its extreme prosperity
       might have brought adversity upon the Drama. I found the
       Institution with some difficulty, and should scarcely have known
       that I had found it if I had judged from its external appearance
       only; but this was attributable to its never having been finished,
       and having no front: consequently, it led a modest and retired
       existence up a stable-yard. It was (as I learnt, on inquiry) a
       most flourishing Institution, and of the highest benefit to the
       town: two triumphs which I was glad to understand were not at all
       impaired by the seeming drawbacks that no mechanics belonged to it,
       and that it was steeped in debt to the chimney-pots. It had a
       large room, which was approached by an infirm step-ladder: the
       builder having declined to construct the intended staircase,
       without a present payment in cash, which Dullborough (though
       profoundly appreciative of the Institution) seemed unaccountably
       bashful about subscribing. The large room had cost--or would, when
       paid for--five hundred pounds; and it had more mortar in it and
       more echoes, than one might have expected to get for the money. It
       was fitted up with a platform, and the usual lecturing tools,
       including a large black board of a menacing appearance. On
       referring to lists of the courses of lectures that had been given
       in this thriving Hall, I fancied I detected a shyness in admitting
       that human nature when at leisure has any desire whatever to be
       relieved and diverted; and a furtive sliding in of any poor make-
       weight piece of amusement, shame-facedly and edgewise. Thus, I
       observed that it was necessary for the members to be knocked on the
       head with Gas, Air, Water, Food, the Solar System, the Geological
       periods, Criticism on Milton, the Steam-engine, John Bunyan, and
       Arrow-Headed Inscriptions, before they might be tickled by those
       unaccountable choristers, the negro singers in the court costume of
       the reign of George the Second. Likewise, that they must be
       stunned by a weighty inquiry whether there was internal evidence in
       Shakespeare's works, to prove that his uncle by the mother's side
       lived for some years at Stoke Newington, before they were brought-
       to by a Miscellaneous Concert. But, indeed, the masking of
       entertainment, and pretending it was something else--as people mask
       bedsteads when they are obliged to have them in sitting-rooms, and
       make believe that they are book-cases, sofas, chests of drawers,
       anything rather than bedsteads--was manifest even in the pretence
       of dreariness that the unfortunate entertainers themselves felt
       obliged in decency to put forth when they came here. One very
       agreeable professional singer, who travelled with two professional
       ladies, knew better than to introduce either of those ladies to
       sing the ballad 'Comin' through the Rye' without prefacing it
       himself, with some general remarks on wheat and clover; and even
       then, he dared not for his life call the song, a song, but
       disguised it in the bill as an 'Illustration.' In the library,
       also--fitted with shelves for three thousand books, and containing
       upwards of one hundred and seventy (presented copies mostly),
       seething their edges in damp plaster--there was such a painfully
       apologetic return of 62 offenders who had read Travels, Popular
       Biography, and mere Fiction descriptive of the aspirations of the
       hearts and souls of mere human creatures like themselves; and such
       an elaborate parade of 2 bright examples who had had down Euclid
       after the day's occupation and confinement; and 3 who had had down
       Metaphysics after ditto; and 1 who had had down Theology after
       ditto; and 4 who had worried Grammar, Political Economy, Botany,
       and Logarithms all at once after ditto; that I suspected the
       boasted class to be one man, who had been hired to do it.
       Emerging from the Mechanics' Institution and continuing my walk
       about the town, I still noticed everywhere the prevalence, to an
       extraordinary degree, of this custom of putting the natural demand
       for amusement out of sight, as some untidy housekeepers put dust,
       and pretending that it was swept away. And yet it was ministered
       to, in a dull and abortive manner, by all who made this feint.
       Looking in at what is called in Dullborough 'the serious
       bookseller's,' where, in my childhood, I had studied the faces of
       numbers of gentlemen depicted in rostrums with a gaslight on each
       side of them, and casting my eyes over the open pages of certain
       printed discourses there, I found a vast deal of aiming at jocosity
       and dramatic effect, even in them--yes, verily, even on the part of
       one very wrathful expounder who bitterly anathematised a poor
       little Circus. Similarly, in the reading provided for the young
       people enrolled in the Lasso of Love, and other excellent unions, I
       found the writers generally under a distressing sense that they
       must start (at all events) like story-tellers, and delude the young
       persons into the belief that they were going to be interesting. As
       I looked in at this window for twenty minutes by the clock, I am in
       a position to offer a friendly remonstrance--not bearing on this
       particular point--to the designers and engravers of the pictures in
       those publications. Have they considered the awful consequences
       likely to flow from their representations of Virtue? Have they
       asked themselves the question, whether the terrific prospect of
       acquiring that fearful chubbiness of head, unwieldiness of arm,
       feeble dislocation of leg, crispiness of hair, and enormity of
       shirt-collar, which they represent as inseparable from Goodness,
       may not tend to confirm sensitive waverers, in Evil? A most
       impressive example (if I had believed it) of what a Dustman and a
       Sailor may come to, when they mend their ways, was presented to me
       in this same shop-window. When they were leaning (they were
       intimate friends) against a post, drunk and reckless, with
       surpassingly bad hats on, and their hair over their foreheads, they
       were rather picturesque, and looked as if they might be agreeable
       men, if they would not be beasts. But, when they had got over
       their bad propensities, and when, as a consequence, their heads had
       swelled alarmingly, their hair had got so curly that it lifted
       their blown-out cheeks up, their coat-cuffs were so long that they
       never could do any work, and their eyes were so wide open that they
       never could do any sleep, they presented a spectacle calculated to
       plunge a timid nature into the depths of Infamy.
       But, the clock that had so degenerated since I saw it last,
       admonished me that I had stayed here long enough; and I resumed my
       walk.
       I had not gone fifty paces along the street when I was suddenly
       brought up by the sight of a man who got out of a little phaeton at
       the doctor's door, and went into the doctor's house. Immediately,
       the air was filled with the scent of trodden grass, and the
       perspective of years opened, and at the end of it was a little
       likeness of this man keeping a wicket, and I said, 'God bless my
       soul! Joe Specks!'
       Through many changes and much work, I had preserved a tenderness
       for the memory of Joe, forasmuch as we had made the acquaintance of
       Roderick Random together, and had believed him to be no ruffian,
       but an ingenuous and engaging hero. Scorning to ask the boy left
       in the phaeton whether it was really Joe, and scorning even to read
       the brass plate on the door--so sure was I--I rang the bell and
       informed the servant maid that a stranger sought audience of Mr.
       Specks. Into a room, half surgery, half study, I was shown to
       await his coming, and I found it, by a series of elaborate
       accidents, bestrewn with testimonies to Joe. Portrait of Mr.
       Specks, bust of Mr. Specks, silver cup from grateful patient to Mr.
       Specks, presentation sermon from local clergyman, dedication poem
       from local poet, dinner-card from local nobleman, tract on balance
       of power from local refugee, inscribed Hommage de l'auteur a
       Specks.
       When my old schoolfellow came in, and I informed him with a smile
       that I was not a patient, he seemed rather at a loss to perceive
       any reason for smiling in connexion with that fact, and inquired to
       what was he to attribute the honour? I asked him with another
       smile, could he remember me at all? He had not (he said) that
       pleasure. I was beginning to have but a poor opinion of Mr.
       Specks, when he said reflectively, 'And yet there's a something
       too.' Upon that, I saw a boyish light in his eyes that looked
       well, and I asked him if he could inform me, as a stranger who
       desired to know and had not the means of reference at hand, what
       the name of the young lady was, who married Mr. Random? Upon that,
       he said 'Narcissa,' and, after staring for a moment, called me by
       my name, shook me by the hand, and melted into a roar of laughter.
       'Why, of course, you'll remember Lucy Green,' he said, after we had
       talked a little. 'Of course,' said I. 'Whom do you think she
       married?' said he. 'You?' I hazarded. 'Me,' said Specks, 'and you
       shall see her.' So I saw her, and she was fat, and if all the hay
       in the world had been heaped upon her, it could scarcely have
       altered her face more than Time had altered it from my remembrance
       of the face that had once looked down upon me into the fragrant
       dungeons of Seringapatam. But when her youngest child came in
       after dinner (for I dined with them, and we had no other company
       than Specks, Junior, Barrister-at-law, who went away as soon as the
       cloth was removed, to look after the young lady to whom he was
       going to be married next week), I saw again, in that little
       daughter, the little face of the hayfield, unchanged, and it quite
       touched my foolish heart. We talked immensely, Specks and Mrs.
       Specks, and I, and we spoke of our old selves as though our old
       selves were dead and gone, and indeed, indeed they were--dead and
       gone as the playing-field that had become a wilderness of rusty
       iron, and the property of S.E.R.
       Specks, however, illuminated Dullborough with the rays of interest
       that I wanted and should otherwise have missed in it, and linked
       its present to its past, with a highly agreeable chain. And in
       Specks's society I had new occasion to observe what I had before
       noticed in similar communications among other men. All the
       schoolfellows and others of old, whom I inquired about, had either
       done superlatively well or superlatively ill--had either become
       uncertificated bankrupts, or been felonious and got themselves
       transported; or had made great hits in life, and done wonders. And
       this is so commonly the case, that I never can imagine what becomes
       of all the mediocre people of people's youth--especially
       considering that we find no lack of the species in our maturity.
       But, I did not propound this difficulty to Specks, for no pause in
       the conversation gave me an occasion. Nor, could I discover one
       single flaw in the good doctor--when he reads this, he will receive
       in a friendly spirit the pleasantly meant record--except that he
       had forgotten his Roderick Random, and that he confounded Strap
       with Lieutenant Hatchway; who never knew Random, howsoever intimate
       with Pickle.
       When I went alone to the Railway to catch my train at night (Specks
       had meant to go with me, but was inopportunely called out), I was
       in a more charitable mood with Dullborough than I had been all day;
       and yet in my heart I had loved it all day too. Ah! who was I that
       I should quarrel with the town for being changed to me, when I
       myself had come back, so changed, to it! All my early readings and
       early imaginations dated from this place, and I took them away so
       full of innocent construction and guileless belief, and I brought
       them back so worn and torn, so much the wiser and so much the
       worse! _