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The Gilded Age
CHAPTER XXIX
Mark Twain
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       CHAPTER XXIX
       Philip Sterling was on his way to Ilium, in the state of Pennsylvania.
       Ilium was the railway station nearest to the tract of wild land which
       Mr. Bolton had commissioned him to examine.
       On the last day of the journey as the railway train Philip was on was
       leaving a large city, a lady timidly entered the drawing-room car, and
       hesitatingly took a chair that was at the moment unoccupied. Philip saw
       from the window that a gentleman had put her upon the car just as it was
       starting. In a few moments the conductor entered, and without waiting an
       explanation, said roughly to the lady,
       "Now you can't sit there. That seat's taken. Go into the other car."
       "I did not intend to take the seat," said the lady rising, "I only sat
       down a moment till the conductor should come and give me a seat."
       "There aint any. Car's full. You'll have to leave."
       "But, sir," said the lady, appealingly, "I thought--"
       "Can't help what you thought--you must go into the other car."
       "The train is going very fast, let me stand here till we stop."
       "The lady can have my seat," cried Philip, springing up.
       The conductor turned towards Philip, and coolly and deliberately surveyed
       him from head to foot, with contempt in every line of his face, turned
       his back upon him without a word, and said to the lady,
       "Come, I've got no time to talk. You must go now."
       The lady, entirely disconcerted by such rudeness, and frightened, moved
       towards the door, opened it and stepped out. The train was swinging
       along at a rapid rate, jarring from side to side; the step was a long one
       between the cars and there was no protecting grating. The lady attempted
       it, but lost her balance, in the wind and the motion of the car, and
       fell! She would inevitably have gone down under the wheels, if Philip,
       who had swiftly followed her, had not caught her arm and drawn her up.
       He then assisted her across, found her a seat, received her bewildered
       thanks, and returned to his car.
       The conductor was still there, taking his tickets, and growling something
       about imposition. Philip marched up to him, and burst out with,
       "You are a brute, an infernal brute, to treat a woman that way."
       "Perhaps you'd like to make a fuss about it," sneered the conductor.
       Philip's reply was a blow, given so suddenly and planted so squarely in
       the conductor's face, that it sent him reeling over a fat passenger, who
       was looking up in mild wonder that any one should dare to dispute with a
       conductor, and against the side of the car.
       He recovered himself, reached the bell rope, "Damn you, I'll learn you,"
       stepped to the door and called a couple of brakemen, and then, as the
       speed slackened; roared out,
       "Get off this train."
       "I shall not get off. I have as much right here as you."
       "We'll see," said the conductor, advancing with the brakemen. The
       passengers protested, and some of them said to each other, "That's too
       bad," as they always do in such cases, but none of them offered to take a
       hand with Philip. The men seized him, wrenched him from his seat,
       dragged him along the aisle, tearing his clothes, thrust him from the
       car, and, then flung his carpet-bag, overcoat and umbrella after him.
       And the train went on.
       The conductor, red in the face and puffing from his exertion, swaggered
       through the car, muttering "Puppy, I'll learn him." The passengers, when
       he had gone, were loud in their indignation, and talked about signing a
       protest, but they did nothing more than talk.
       The next morning the Hooverville Patriot and Clarion had this "item":--
       SLIGHTUALLY OVERBOARD.
       "We learn that as the down noon express was leaving H---- yesterday
       a lady! (God save the mark) attempted to force herself into the
       already full palatial car. Conductor Slum, who is too old a bird to
       be caught with chaff, courteously informed her that the car was
       full, and when she insisted on remaining, he persuaded her to go
       into the car where she belonged. Thereupon a young sprig, from the
       East, blustered like a Shanghai rooster, and began to sass the
       conductor with his chin music. That gentleman delivered the young
       aspirant for a muss one of his elegant little left-handers, which so
       astonished him that he began to feel for his shooter. Whereupon Mr.
       Slum gently raised the youth, carried him forth, and set him down
       just outside the car to cool off. Whether the young blood has yet
       made his way out of Bascom's swamp, we have not learned. Conductor
       Slum is one of the most gentlemanly and efficient officers on the
       road; but he ain't trifled with, not much. We learn that the
       company have put a new engine on the seven o'clock train, and newly
       upholstered the drawing-room car throughout. It spares no effort
       for the comfort of the traveling public."
       Philip never had been before in Bascom's swamp, and there was nothing
       inviting in it to detain him. After the train got out of the way he
       crawled out of the briars and the mud, and got upon the track. He was
       somewhat bruised, but he was too angry to mind that. He plodded along
       over the ties in a very hot condition of mind and body. In the scuffle,
       his railway check had disappeared, and he grimly wondered, as he noticed
       the loss, if the company would permit him to walk over their track if
       they should know he hadn't a ticket.
       Philip had to walk some five miles before he reached a little station,
       where he could wait for a train, and he had ample time for reflection.
       At first he was full of vengeance on the company. He would sue it. He
       would make it pay roundly. But then it occurred to him that he did not
       know the name of a witness he could summon, and that a personal fight
       against a railway corporation was about the most hopeless in the world.
       He then thought he would seek out that conductor, lie in wait for him at
       some station, and thrash him, or get thrashed himself.
       But as he got cooler, that did not seem to him a project worthy of a
       gentleman exactly. Was it possible for a gentleman to get even with such
       a fellow as that conductor on the letter's own plane? And when he came
       to this point, he began to ask himself, if he had not acted very much
       like a fool. He didn't regret striking the fellow--he hoped he had left
       a mark on him. But, after all, was that the best way? Here was he,
       Philip Sterling, calling himself a gentleman, in a brawl with a vulgar
       conductor, about a woman he had never seen before. Why should he have
       put himself in such a ridiculous position? Wasn't it enough to have
       offered the lady his seat, to have rescued her from an accident, perhaps
       from death? Suppose he had simply said to the conductor, "Sir, your
       conduct is brutal, I shall report you." The passengers, who saw the
       affair, might have joined in a report against the conductor, and he might
       really have accomplished something. And, now! Philip looked at leis
       torn clothes, and thought with disgust of his haste in getting into a
       fight with such an autocrat.
       At the little station where Philip waited for the next train, he met a
       man--who turned out to be a justice of the peace in that neighborhood,
       and told him his adventure. He was a kindly sort of man, and seemed very
       much interested.
       "Dum 'em," said he, when he had heard the story.
       "Do you think any thing can be done, sir?"
       "Wal, I guess tain't no use. I hain't a mite of doubt of every word you
       say. But suin's no use. The railroad company owns all these people
       along here, and the judges on the bench too. Spiled your clothes! Wal,
       'least said's soonest mended.' You haint no chance with the company."
       When next morning, he read the humorous account in the Patriot and
       Clarion, he saw still more clearly what chance he would have had before
       the public in a fight with the railroad company.
       Still Philip's conscience told him that it was his plain duty to carry
       the matter into the courts, even with the certainty of defeat.
       He confessed that neither he nor any citizen had a right to consult his
       own feelings or conscience in a case where a law of the land had been
       violated before his own eyes. He confessed that every citizen's first
       duty in such case is to put aside his own business and devote his time
       and his best efforts to seeing that the infraction is promptly punished;
       and he knew that no country can be well governed unless its citizens as
       a body keep religiously before their minds that they are the guardians
       of the law, and that the law officers are only the machinery for its
       execution, nothing more. As a finality he was obliged to confess that he
       was a bad citizen, and also that the general laxity of the time, and the
       absence of a sense of duty toward any part of the community but the
       individual himself were ingrained in him, am he was no better than the
       rest of the people.
       The result of this little adventure was that Philip did not reach Ilium
       till daylight the next morning, when he descended sleepy and sore, from a
       way train, and looked about him. Ilium was in a narrow mountain gorge,
       through which a rapid stream ran. It consisted of the plank platform on
       which he stood, a wooden house, half painted, with a dirty piazza
       (unroofed) in front, and a sign board hung on a slanting pole--bearing
       the legend, "Hotel. P. Dusenheimer," a sawmill further down the stream,
       a blacksmith-shop, and a store, and three or four unpainted dwellings of
       the slab variety.
       As Philip approached the hotel he saw what appeared to be a wild beast
       crouching on the piazza. It did not stir, however, and he soon found
       that it was only a stuffed skin. This cheerful invitation to the tavern
       was the remains of a huge panther which had been killed in the region a
       few weeks before. Philip examined his ugly visage and strong crooked
       fore-arm, as he was waiting admittance, having pounded upon the door.
       "Yait a bit. I'll shoost--put on my trowsers," shouted a voice from the
       window, and the door was soon opened by the yawning landlord.
       "Morgen! Didn't hear d' drain oncet. Dem boys geeps me up zo spate.
       Gom right in."
       Philip was shown into a dirty bar-room. It was a small room, with a
       stove in the middle, set in a long shallow box of sand, for the benefit
       of the "spitters," a bar across one end--a mere counter with a sliding
       glass-case behind it containing a few bottles having ambitious labels,
       and a wash-sink in one corner. On the walls were the bright yellow and
       black handbills of a traveling circus, with pictures of acrobats in human
       pyramids, horses flying in long leaps through the air, and sylph-like
       women in a paradisaic costume, balancing themselves upon the tips of
       their toes on the bare backs of frantic and plunging steeds, and kissing
       their hands to the spectators meanwhile.
       As Philip did not desire a room at that hour, he was invited to wash
       himself at the nasty sink, a feat somewhat easier than drying his face,
       for the towel that hung in a roller over the sink was evidently as much a
       fixture as the sink itself, and belonged, like the suspended brush and
       comb, to the traveling public. Philip managed to complete his toilet by
       the use of his pocket-handkerchief, and declining the hospitality of the
       landlord, implied in the remark, "You won'd dake notin'?" he went into
       the open air to wait for breakfast.
       The country he saw was wild but not picturesque. The mountain before him
       might be eight hundred feet high, and was only a portion of a long
       unbroken range, savagely wooded, which followed the stream. Behind the
       hotel, and across the brawling brook, was another level-topped, wooded
       range exactly like it. Ilium itself, seen at a glance, was old enough to
       be dilapidated, and if it had gained anything by being made a wood and
       water station of the new railroad, it was only a new sort of grime and
       rawness. P. Dusenheimer, standing in the door of his uninviting
       groggery, when the trains stopped for water; never received from the
       traveling public any patronage except facetious remarks upon his personal
       appearance. Perhaps a thousand times he had heard the remark, "Ilium
       fuit," followed in most instances by a hail to himself as "AEneas," with
       the inquiry "Where is old Anchises? "At first he had replied, "Dere
       ain't no such man;" but irritated by its senseless repetition, he had
       latterly dropped into the formula of, "You be dam."
       Philip was recalled from the contemplation of Ilium by the rolling and
       growling of the gong within the hotel, the din and clamor increasing till
       the house was apparently unable to contain it; when it burst out of the
       front door and informed the world that breakfast was on the table.
       The dining room was long, low and narrow, and a narrow table extended its
       whole length. Upon this was spread a cloth which from appearance might
       have been as long in use as the towel in the barroom. Upon the table was
       the usual service, the heavy, much nicked stone ware, the row of plated
       and rusty castors, the sugar bowls with the zinc tea-spoons sticking up
       in them, the piles of yellow biscuits, the discouraged-looking plates of
       butter. The landlord waited, and Philip was pleased to observe the
       change in his manner. In the barroom he was the conciliatory landlord.
       Standing behind his guests at table, he had an air of peremptory
       patronage, and the voice in which he shot out the inquiry, as he seized
       Philip's plate, "Beefsteak or liver?" quite took away Philip's power of
       choice. He begged for a glass of milk, after trying that green hued
       compound called coffee, and made his breakfast out of that and some hard
       crackers which seemed to have been imported into Ilium before the
       introduction of the iron horse, and to have withstood a ten years siege
       of regular boarders, Greeks and others.
       The land that Philip had come to look at was at least five miles distant
       from Ilium station. A corner of it touched the railroad, but the rest
       was pretty much an unbroken wilderness, eight or ten thousand acres of
       rough country, most of it such a mountain range as he saw at Ilium.
       His first step was to hire three woodsmen to accompany him. By their
       help he built a log hut, and established a camp on the land, and then
       began his explorations, mapping down his survey as he went along, noting
       the timber, and the lay of the land, and making superficial observations
       as to the prospect of coal.
       The landlord at Ilium endeavored to persuade Philip to hire the services
       of a witch-hazel professor of that region, who could walk over the land
       with his wand and tell him infallibly whether it contained coal, and
       exactly where the strata ran. But Philip preferred to trust to his own
       study of the country, and his knowledge of the geological formation.
       He spent a month in traveling over the land and making calculations;
       and made up his mind that a fine vein of coal ran through the mountain
       about a mile from the railroad, and that the place to run in a tunnel was
       half way towards its summit.
       Acting with his usual promptness, Philip, with the consent of Mr. Bolton,
       broke ground there at once, and, before snow came, had some rude
       buildings up, and was ready for active operations in the spring. It was
       true that there were no outcroppings of coal at the place, and the people
       at Ilium said he "mought as well dig for plug terbaccer there;" but
       Philip had great faith in the uniformity of nature's operations in ages
       past, and he had no doubt that he should strike at this spot the rich
       vein that had made the fortune of the Golden Briar Company.
       Content of CHAPTER XXIX [Mark Twain/C. D. Warner's novel: The Gilded Age]
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