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A Personal Record: Some Reminiscences
CHAPTER VI
Joseph Conrad
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       _
       CHAPTER VI
       In the retrospect of a life which had, besides its preliminary
       stage of childhood and early youth, two distinct developments,
       and even two distinct elements, such as earth and water, for its
       successive scenes, a certain amount of naiveness is unavoidable.
       I am conscious of it in these pages. This remark is put forward
       in no apologetic spirit. As years go by and the number of pages
       grows steadily, the feeling grows upon one too that one can write
       only for friends. Then why should one put them to the necessity
       of protesting (as a friend would do) that no apology is
       necessary, or put, perchance, into their heads the doubt of one's
       discretion? So much as to the care due to those friends whom a
       word here, a line there, a fortunate page of just feeling in the
       right place, some happy simplicity, or even some lucky subtlety,
       has drawn from the great multitude of fellow-beings even as a
       fish is drawn from the depths of the sea. Fishing is notoriously
       (I am talking now of the deep sea) a matter of luck. As to one's
       enemies, those will take care of themselves.
       There is a gentleman, for instance, who, metaphorically speaking,
       jumps upon me with both feet. This image has no grace, but it is
       exceedingly apt to the occasion--to the several occasions. I
       don't know precisely how long he had been indulging in that
       intermittent exercise, whose seasons are ruled by the custom of
       the publishing trade. Somebody pointed him out (in printed
       shape, of course) to my attention some time ago, and straightway
       I experienced a sort of reluctant affection for that robust man.
       He leaves not a shred of my substance untrodden: for the
       writer's substance is his writing; the rest of him is but a vain
       shadow, cherished or hated on uncritical grounds. Not a shred!
       Yet the sentiment owned to is not a freak of affectation or
       perversity. It has a deeper, and, I venture to think, a more
       estimable origin than the caprice of emotional lawlessness. It
       is, indeed, lawful, in so much that it is given (reluctantly) for
       a consideration, for several considerations. There is that
       robustness, for instance, so often the sign of good moral
       balance. That's a consideration. It is not, indeed, pleasant to
       be stamped upon, but the very thoroughness of the operation,
       implying not only a careful reading, but some real insight into
       work whose qualities and defects, whatever they may be, are not
       so much on the surface, is something to be thankful for in view
       of the fact that it may happen to one's work to be condemned
       without being read at all. This is the most fatuous adventure
       that can well happen to a writer venturing his soul amongst
       criticisms. It can do one no harm, of course, but it is
       disagreeable. It is disagreeable in the same way as discovering
       a three-card-trick man amongst a decent lot of folk in a third-
       class compartment. The open impudence of the whole transaction,
       appealing insidiously to the folly and credulity of mankind, the
       brazen, shameless patter, proclaiming the fraud openly while
       insisting on the fairness of the game, give one a feeling of
       sickening disgust. The honest violence of a plain man playing a
       fair game fairly--even if he means to knock you over--may appear
       shocking, but it remains within the pale of decency. Damaging as
       it may be, it is in no sense offensive. One may well feel some
       regard for honesty, even if practised upon one's own vile body.
       But it is very obvious that an enemy of that sort will not be
       stayed by explanations or placated by apologies. Were I to
       advance the plea of youth in excuse of the naiveness to be found
       in these pages, he would be likely to say "Bosh!" in a column and
       a half of fierce print. Yet a writer is no older than his first
       published book, and, notwithstanding the vain appearances of
       decay which attend us in this transitory life, I stand here with
       the wreath of only fifteen short summers on my brow.
       With the remark, then, that at such tender age some naiveness of
       feeling and expression is excusable, I proceed to admit that,
       upon the whole, my previous state of existence was not a good
       equipment for a literary life. Perhaps I should not have used the
       word literary. That word presupposes an intimacy of acquaintance
       with letters, a turn of mind and a manner of feeling to which I
       dare lay no claim. I only love letters; but the love of letters
       does not make a literary man, any more than the love of the sea
       makes a seaman. And it is very possible, too, that I love the
       letters in the same way a literary man may love the sea he looks
       at from the shore--a scene of great endeavour and of great
       achievements changing the face of the world, the great open way
       to all sorts of undiscovered countries. No, perhaps I had better
       say that the life at sea--and I don't mean a mere taste of it,
       but a good broad span of years, something that really counts as
       real service--is not, upon the whole, a good equipment for a
       writing life. God forbid, though, that I should be thought of as
       denying my masters of the quarter-deck. I am not capable of that
       sort of apostasy. I have confessed my attitude of piety towards
       their shades in three or four tales, and if any man on earth more
       than another needs to be true to himself as he hopes to be saved,
       it is certainly the writer of fiction.
       What I meant to say, simply, is that the quarter-deck training
       does not prepare one sufficiently for the reception of literary
       criticism. Only that, and no more. But this defect is not
       without gravity. If it be permissible to twist, invert, adapt
       (and spoil) M. Anatole France's definition of a good critic, then
       let us say that the good author is he who contemplates without
       marked joy or excessive sorrow the adventures of his soul amongst
       criticisms. Far be from me the intention to mislead an attentive
       public into the belief that there is no criticism at sea. That
       would be dishonest, and even impolite. Everything can be found
       at sea, according to the spirit of your quest--strife, peace,
       romance, naturalism of the most pronounced kind, ideals, boredom,
       disgust, inspiration--and every conceivable opportunity,
       including the opportunity to make a fool of yourself--exactly as
       in the pursuit of literature. But the quarter-deck criticism is
       somewhat different from literary criticism. This much they have
       in common, that before the one and the other the answering back,
       as a general rule, does not pay.
       Yes, you find criticism at sea, and even appreciation--I tell you
       everything is to be found on salt water--criticism generally
       impromptu, and always viva voce, which is the outward, obvious
       difference from the literary operation of that kind, with
       consequent freshness and vigour which may be lacking in the
       printed word. With appreciation, which comes at the end, when
       the critic and the criticised are about to part, it is otherwise.
       The sea appreciation of one's humble talents has the permanency
       of the written word, seldom the charm of variety, is formal in
       its phrasing. There the literary master has the superiority,
       though he, too, can in effect but say--and often says it in the
       very phrase--"I can highly recommend." Only usually he uses the
       word "We," there being some occult virtue in the first person
       plural, which makes it specially fit for critical and royal
       declarations. I have a small handful of these sea appreciations,
       signed by various masters, yellowing slowly in my writing-table's
       left-hand drawer, rustling under my reverent touch, like a
       handful of dry leaves plucked for a tender memento from the tree
       of knowledge. Strange! It seems that it is for these few bits
       of paper, headed by the names of a few ships and signed by the
       names of a few Scots and English shipmasters, that I have faced
       the astonished indignations, the mockeries and the reproaches of
       a sort hard to bear for a boy of fifteen; that I have been
       charged with the want of patriotism, the want of sense, and the
       want of heart too; that I went through agonies of self-conflict
       and shed secret tears not a few, and had the beauties of the
       Furca Pass spoiled for me, and have been called an "incorrigible
       Don Quixote," in allusion to the book-born madness of the knight.
       For that spoil! They rustle, those bits of paper--some dozen of
       them in all. In that faint, ghostly sound there live the
       memories of twenty years, the voices of rough men now no more,
       the strong voice of the everlasting winds, and the whisper of a
       mysterious spell, the murmur of the great sea, which must have
       somehow reached my inland cradle and entered my unconscious ear,
       like that formula of Mohammedan faith the Mussulman father
       whispers into the ear of his new-born infant, making him one of
       the faithful almost with his first breath. I do not know whether
       I have been a good seaman, but I know I have been a very faithful
       one. And after all there is that handful of "characters" from
       various ships to prove that all these years have not been
       altogether a dream. There they are, brief, and monotonous in
       tone, but as suggestive bits of writing to me as any inspired
       page to be found in literature. But then, you see, I have been
       called romantic. Well, that can't be helped. But stay. I seem
       to remember that I have been called a realist also. And as that
       charge too can be made out, let us try to live up to it, at
       whatever cost, for a change. With this end in view, I will
       confide to you coyly, and only because there is no one about to
       see my blushes by the light of the midnight lamp, that these
       suggestive bits of quarter-deck appreciation one and all contain
       the words "strictly sober."
       Did I overhear a civil murmur, "That's very gratifying, to be
       sure"? Well, yes, it is gratifying--thank you. It is at least
       as gratifying to be certified sober as to be certified romantic,
       though such certificates would not qualify one for the
       secretaryship of a temperance association or for the post of
       official troubadour to some lordly democratic institution such as
       the London County Council, for instance. The above prosaic
       reflection is put down here only in order to prove the general
       sobriety of my judgment in mundane affairs. I make a point of it
       because a couple of years ago, a certain short story of mine
       being published in a French translation, a Parisian critic--I am
       almost certain it was M. Gustave Kahn in the "Gil-Blas"--giving
       me a short notice, summed up his rapid impression of the writer's
       quality in the words un puissant reveur. So be it! Who would
       cavil at the words of a friendly reader? Yet perhaps not such an
       unconditional dreamer as all that. I will make bold to say that
       neither at sea nor ashore have I ever lost the sense of
       responsibility. There is more than one sort of intoxication.
       Even before the most seductive reveries I have remained mindful
       of that sobriety of interior life, that asceticism of sentiment,
       in which alone the naked form of truth, such as one conceives it,
       such as one feels it, can be rendered without shame. It is but a
       maudlin and indecent verity that comes out through the strength
       of wine. I have tried to be a sober worker all my life--all my
       two lives. I did so from taste, no doubt, having an instinctive
       horror of losing my sense of full self-possession, but also from
       artistic conviction. Yet there are so many pitfalls on each side
       of the true path that, having gone some way, and feeling a little
       battered and weary, as a middle-aged traveller will from the mere
       daily difficulties of the march, I ask myself whether I have kept
       always, always faithful to that sobriety wherein there is power,
       and truth, and peace.
       As to my sea-sobriety, that is quite properly certified under the
       sign-manual of several trustworthy shipmasters of some standing
       in their time. I seem to hear your polite murmur that "Surely
       this might have been taken for granted." Well, no. It might not
       have been. That august academical body the Marine Department of
       the Board of Trade takes nothing for granted in the granting of
       its learned degrees. By its regulations issued under the first
       Merchant Shipping Act, the very word SOBER must be written, or a
       whole sackful, a ton, a mountain of the most enthusiastic
       appreciation will avail you nothing. The door of the examination
       rooms shall remain closed to your tears and entreaties. The most
       fanatical advocate of temperance could not be more pitilessly
       fierce in his rectitude than the Marine Department of the Board
       of Trade. As I have been face to face at various times with all
       the examiners of the Port of London, in my generation, there can
       be no doubt as to the force and the continuity of my
       abstemiousness. Three of them were examiners in seamanship, and
       it was my fate to be delivered into the hands of each of them at
       proper intervals of sea service. The first of all, tall, spare,
       with a perfectly white head and moustache, a quiet, kindly
       manner, and an air of benign intelligence, must, I am forced to
       conclude, have been unfavourably impressed by something in my
       appearance. His old thin hands loosely clasped resting on his
       crossed legs, he began by an elementary question in a mild voice,
       and went on, went on. . .It lasted for hours, for hours. Had I
       been a strange microbe with potentialities of deadly mischief to
       the Merchant Service I could not have been submitted to a more
       microscopic examination. Greatly reassured by his apparent
       benevolence, I had been at first very alert in my answers. But
       at length the feeling of my brain getting addled crept upon me.
       And still the passionless process went on, with a sense of untold
       ages having been spent already on mere preliminaries. Then I got
       frightened. I was not frightened of being plucked; that
       eventuality did not even present itself to my mind. It was
       something much more serious, and weird. "This ancient person," I
       said to myself, terrified, "is so near his grave that he must
       have lost all notion of time. He is considering this examination
       in terms of eternity. It is all very well for him. His race is
       run. But I may find myself coming out of this room into the
       world of men a stranger, friendless, forgotten by my very
       landlady, even were I able after this endless experience to
       remember the way to my hired home." This statement is not so
       much of a verbal exaggeration as may be supposed. Some very
       queer thoughts passed through my head while I was considering my
       answers; thoughts which had nothing to do with seamanship, nor
       yet with anything reasonable known to this earth. I verily
       believe that at times I was lightheaded in a sort of languid way.
       At last there fell a silence, and that, too, seemed to last for
       ages, while, bending over his desk, the examiner wrote out my
       pass-slip slowly with a noiseless pen. He extended the scrap of
       paper to me without a word, inclined his white head gravely to my
       parting bow. . .
       When I got out of the room I felt limply flat, like a squeezed
       lemon, and the door-keeper in his glass cage, where I stopped to
       get my hat and tip him a shilling, said:
       "Well! I thought you were never coming out."
       "How long have I been in there?" I asked faintly.
       He pulled out his watch.
       "He kept you, sir, just under three hours. I don't think this
       ever happened with any of the gentlemen before."
       It was only when I got out of the building that I began to walk
       on air. And the human animal being averse from change and timid
       before the unknown, I said to myself that I would not mind really
       being examined by the same man on a future occasion. But when
       the time of ordeal came round again the doorkeeper let me into
       another room, with the now familiar paraphernalia of models of
       ships and tackle, a board for signals on the wall, a big long
       table covered with official forms, and having an unrigged mast
       fixed to the edge. The solitary tenant was unknown to me by
       sight, though not by reputation, which was simply execrable.
       Short and sturdy as far as I could judge, clad in an old, brown,
       morning-suit, he sat leaning on his elbow, his hand shading his
       eyes, and half averted from the chair I was to occupy on the
       other side of the table. He was motionless, mysterious, remote,
       enigmatical, with something mournful too in the pose, like that
       statue of Giuliano (I think) de' Medici shading his face on the
       tomb by Michael Angelo, though, of course, he was far, far from
       being beautiful. He began by trying to make me talk nonsense.
       But I had been warned of that fiendish trait, and contradicted
       him with great assurance. After a while he left off. So far
       good. But his immobility, the thick elbow on the table, the
       abrupt, unhappy voice, the shaded and averted face grew more and
       more impressive. He kept inscrutably silent for a moment, and
       then, placing me in a ship of a certain size, at sea, under
       certain conditions of weather, season, locality, &c. &c.--all
       very clear and precise--ordered me to execute a certain
       manoeuvre. Before I was half through with it he did some
       material damage to the ship. Directly I had grappled with the
       difficulty he caused another to present itself, and when that too
       was met he stuck another ship before me, creating a very
       dangerous situation. I felt slightly outraged by this ingenuity
       in piling up trouble upon a man.
       "I wouldn't have got into that mess," I suggested mildly. "I
       could have seen that ship before."
       He never stirred the least bit.
       "No, you couldn't. The weather's thick."
       "Oh! I didn't know," I apologised blankly.
       I suppose that after all I managed to stave off the smash with
       sufficient approach to verisimilitude, and the ghastly business
       went on. You must understand that the scheme of the test he was
       applying to me was, I gathered, a homeward passage--the sort of
       passage I would not wish to my bitterest enemy. That imaginary
       ship seemed to labour under a most comprehensive curse. It's no
       use enlarging on these never-ending misfortunes; suffice it to
       say that long before the end I would have welcomed with gratitude
       an opportunity to exchange into the "Flying Dutchman." Finally
       he shoved me into the North Sea (I suppose) and provided me with
       a lee-shore with outlying sandbanks--the Dutch coast presumably.
       Distance, eight miles. The evidence of such implacable animosity
       deprived me of speech for quite half a minute.
       "Well," he said--for our pace had been very smart indeed till
       then.
       "I will have to think a little, sir."
       "Doesn't look as if there were much time to think," he muttered
       sardonically from under his hand.
       "No, sir," I said with some warmth. "Not on board a ship I could
       see. But so many accidents have happened that I really can't
       remember what there's left for me to work with."
       Still half averted, and with his eyes concealed, he made
       unexpectedly a grunting remark.
       "You've done very well."
       "Have I the two anchors at the bow, sir?" I asked.
       "Yes."
       I prepared myself then, as a last hope for the ship, to let them
       both go in the most effectual manner, when his infernal system of
       testing resourcefulness came into play again.
       "But there's only one cable. You've lost the other."
       It was exasperating.
       "Then I would back them, if I could, and tail the heaviest hawser
       on board on the end of the chain before letting go, and if she
       parted from that, which is quite likely, I would just do nothing.
       She would have to go."
       "Nothing more to do, eh?"
       "No, sir. I could do no more."
       He gave a bitter half-laugh.
       "You could always say your prayers."
       He got up, stretched himself, and yawned slightly. It was a
       sallow, strong, unamiable face. He put me in a surly, bored
       fashion through the usual questions as to lights and signals, and
       I escaped from the room thankfully--passed! Forty minutes! And
       again I walked on air along Tower Hill, where so many good men
       had lost their heads, because, I suppose, they were not
       resourceful enough to save them. And in my heart of hearts I had
       no objection to meeting that examiner once more when the third
       and last ordeal became due in another year or so. I even hoped I
       should. I knew the worst of him now, and forty minutes is not an
       unreasonable time. Yes, I distinctly hoped. . .
       But not a bit of it. When I presented myself to be examined for
       Master the examiner who received me was short, plump, with a
       round, soft face in grey, fluffy whiskers, and fresh, loquacious
       lips.
       He commenced operations with an easy-going "Let's see. H'm.
       Suppose you tell me all you know of charter-parties." He kept it
       up in that style all through, wandering off in the shape of
       comment into bits out of his own life, then pulling himself up
       short and returning to the business in hand. It was very
       interesting. "What's your idea of a jury-rudder now?" he queried
       suddenly, at the end of an instructive anecdote bearing upon a
       point of stowage.
       I warned him that I had no experience of a lost rudder at sea,
       and gave him two classical examples of makeshifts out of a text-
       book. In exchange he described to me a jury-rudder he had
       invented himself years before, when in command of a 3000-ton
       steamer. It was, I declare, the cleverest contrivance
       imaginable. "May be of use to you some day," he concluded. "You
       will go into steam presently. Everybody goes into steam."
       There he was wrong. I never went into steam--not really. If I
       only live long enough I shall become a bizarre relic of a dead
       barbarism, a sort of monstrous antiquity, the only seaman of the
       dark ages who had never gone into steam--not really.
       Before the examination was over he imparted to me a few
       interesting details of the transport service in the time of the
       Crimean War.
       "The use of wire rigging became general about that time too," he
       observed. "I was a very young master then. That was before you
       were born."
       "Yes, sir. I am of the year 1857."
       "The Mutiny year," he commented, as if to himself, adding in a
       louder tone that his ship happened then to be in the Gulf of
       Bengal, employed under a Government charter.
       Clearly the transport service had been the making of this
       examiner, who so unexpectedly had given me an insight into his
       existence, awakening in me the sense of the continuity of that
       sea-life into which I had stepped from outside; giving a touch of
       human intimacy to the machinery of official relations. I felt
       adopted. His experience was for me, too, as though he had been
       an ancestor.
       Writing my long name (it has twelve letters) with laborious care
       on the slip of blue paper, he remarked:
       "You are of Polish extraction."
       "Born there, sir."
       He laid down the pen and leaned back to look at me as it were for
       the first time.
       "Not many of your nationality in our service, I should think. I
       never remember meeting one either before or after I left the sea.
       Don't remember ever hearing of one. An inland people, aren't
       you?"
       I said yes--very much so. We were remote from the sea not only
       by situation, but also from a complete absence of indirect
       association, not being a commercial nation at all, but purely
       agricultural. He made then the quaint reflection that it was "a
       long way for me to come out to begin a sea-life"; as if sea-life
       were not precisely a life in which one goes a long way from home.
       I told him, smiling, that no doubt I could have found a ship much
       nearer my native place, but I had thought to myself that if I was
       to be a seaman then I would be a British seaman and no other. It
       was a matter of deliberate choice.
       He nodded slightly at that; and as he kept on looking at me
       interrogatively, I enlarged a little, confessing that I had spent
       a little time on the way in the Mediterranean and in the West
       Indies. I did not want to present myself to the British Merchant
       Service in an altogether green state. It was no use telling him
       that my mysterious vocation was so strong that my very wild oats
       had to be sown at sea. It was the exact truth, but he would not
       have understood the somewhat exceptional psychology of my sea-
       going, I fear.
       "I suppose you've never come across one of your countrymen at
       sea. Have you now?"
       I admitted I never had. The examiner had given himself up to the
       spirit of gossiping idleness. For myself, I was in no haste to
       leave that room. Not in the least. The era of examinations was
       over. I would never again see that friendly man who was a
       professional ancestor, a sort of grandfather in the craft.
       Moreover, I had to wait till he dismissed me, and of that there
       was no sign. As he remained silent, looking at me, I added:
       "But I have heard of one, some years ago. He seems to have been
       a boy serving his time on board a Liverpool ship, if I am not
       mistaken."
       "What was his name?"
       I told him.
       "How did you say that?" he asked, puckering up his eyes at the
       uncouth sound.
       I repeated the name very distinctly.
       "How do you spell it?"
       I told him. He moved his head at the impracticable nature of
       that name, and observed:
       "It's quite as long as your own--isn't it?"
       There was no hurry. I had passed for Master, and I had all the
       rest of my life before me to make the best of it. That seemed a
       long time. I went leisurely through a small mental calculation,
       and said:
       "Not quite. Shorter by two letters, sir."
       "Is it?" The examiner pushed the signed blue slip across the
       table to me, and rose from his chair. Somehow this seemed a very
       abrupt ending of our relations, and I felt almost sorry to part
       from that excellent man, who was master of a ship before the
       whisper of the sea had reached my cradle. He offered me his hand
       and wished me well. He even made a few steps towards the door
       with me, and ended with good-natured advice.
       "I don't know what may be your plans but you ought to go into
       steam. When a man has got his master's certificate it's the
       proper time. If I were you I would go into steam."
       I thanked him, and shut the door behind me definitely on the era
       of examinations. But that time I did not walk on air, as on the
       first two occasions. I walked across the Hill of many beheadings
       with measured steps. It was a fact, I said to myself, that I was
       now a British master mariner beyond a doubt. It was not that I
       had an exaggerated sense of that very modest achievement, with
       which, however, luck, opportunity, or any extraneous influence
       could have had nothing to do. That fact, satisfactory and
       obscure in itself, had for me a certain ideal significance. It
       was an answer to certain outspoken scepticism, and even to some
       not very kind aspersions. I had vindicated myself from what had
       been cried upon as a stupid obstinacy or a fantastic caprice. I
       don't mean to say that a whole country had been convulsed by my
       desire to go to sea. But for a boy between fifteen and sixteen,
       sensitive enough, in all conscience, the commotion of his little
       world had seemed a very considerable thing indeed. So
       considerable that, absurdly enough, the echoes of it linger to
       this day. I catch myself in hours of solitude and retrospect
       meeting arguments and charges made thirty-five years ago by
       voices now for ever still; finding things to say that an assailed
       boy could not have found, simply because of the mysteriousness of
       his impulses to himself. I understood no more than the people
       who called upon me to explain myself. There was no precedent. I
       verily believe mine was the only case of a boy of my nationality
       and antecedents taking a, so to speak, standing jump out of his
       racial surroundings and associations. For you must understand
       that there was no idea of any sort of "career" in my call. Of
       Russia or Germany there could be no question. The nationality,
       the antecedents, made it impossible. The feeling against the
       Austrian service was not so strong, and I dare say there would
       have been no difficulty in finding my way into the Naval School
       at Pola. It would have meant six months' extra grinding at
       German, perhaps, but I was not past the age of admission, and in
       other respects I was well qualified. This expedient to palliate
       my folly was thought of--but not by me. I must admit that in
       that respect my negative was accepted at once. That order of
       feeling was comprehensible enough to the most inimical of my
       critics. I was not called upon to offer explanations; the truth
       is that what I had in view was not a naval career, but the sea.
       There seemed no way open to it but through France. I had the
       language at any rate, and of all the countries in Europe it is
       with France that Poland has most connection. There were some
       facilities for having me a little looked after, at first.
       Letters were being written, answers were being received,
       arrangements were being made for my departure for Marseilles,
       where an excellent fellow called Solary, got at in a roundabout
       fashion through various French channels, had promised good-
       naturedly to put le jeune homme in the way of getting a decent
       ship for his first start if he really wanted a taste of ce metier
       de chien.
       I watched all these preparations gratefully, and kept my own
       counsel. But what I told the last of my examiners was perfectly
       true. Already the determined resolve, that "if a seaman, then an
       English seaman," was formulated in my head though, of course, in
       the Polish language. I did not know six words of English, and I
       was astute enough to understand that it was much better to say
       nothing of my purpose. As it was I was already looked upon as
       partly insane, at least by the more distant acquaintances. The
       principal thing was to get away. I put my trust in the good-
       natured Solary's very civil letter to my uncle, though I was
       shocked a little by the phrase about the metier de chien.
       This Solary (Baptistin), when I beheld him in the flesh, turned
       out a quite young man, very good-looking, with a fine black,
       short beard, a fresh complexion, and soft, merry black eyes. He
       was as jovial and good-natured as any boy could desire. I was
       still asleep in my room in a modest hotel near the quays of the
       old port, after the fatigues of the journey via Vienna, Zurich,
       Lyons, when he burst in flinging the shutters open to the sun of
       Provence and chiding me boisterously for lying abed. How
       pleasantly he startled me by his noisy objurgations to be up and
       off instantly for a "three years' campaign in the South Seas." O
       magic words! Une campagne de trois ans dans les mers du sud"--
       that is the French for a three years' deep-water voyage.
       He gave me a delightful waking, and his friendliness was
       unwearied; but I fear he did not enter upon the quest for a ship
       for me in a very solemn spirit. He had been at sea himself, but
       had left off at the age of twenty-five, finding he could earn his
       living on shore in a much more agreeable manner. He was related
       to an incredible number of Marseilles well-to-do families of a
       certain class. One of his uncles was a ship-broker of good
       standing, with a large connection amongst English ships; other
       relatives of his dealt in ships' stores, owned sail-lofts, sold
       chains and anchors, were master-stevedores, caulkers,
       shipwrights. His grandfather (I think) was a dignitary of a
       kind, the Syndic of the Pilots. I made acquaintances amongst
       these people, but mainly amongst the pilots. The very first
       whole day I ever spent on salt water was by invitation, in a big
       half-decked pilot-boat, cruising under close reefs on the look-
       out, in misty, blowing weather, for the sails of ships and the
       smoke of steamers rising out there, beyond the slim and tall
       Planier lighthouse cutting the line of the wind-swept horizon
       with a white perpendicular stroke. They were hospitable souls,
       these sturdy Provencal seamen. Under the general designation of
       le petit ami de Baptistin I was made the guest of the Corporation
       of Pilots, and had the freedom of their boats night or day. And
       many a day and a night too did I spend cruising with these rough,
       kindly men, under whose auspices my intimacy with the sea began.
       Many a time "the little friend of Baptistin" had the hooded cloak
       of the Mediterranean sailor thrown over him by their honest hands
       while dodging at night under the lee of Chateau d'If on the watch
       for the lights of ships. Their sea-tanned faces, whiskered or
       shaved, lean or full, with the intent wrinkled sea-eyes of the
       pilot-breed, and here and there a thin gold hoop at the lobe of a
       hairy ear, bent over my sea-infancy. The first operation of
       seamanship I had an opportunity of observing was the boarding of
       ships at sea, at all times, in all states of the weather. They
       gave it to me to the full. And I have been invited to sit in
       more than one tall, dark house of the old town at their
       hospitable board, had the bouillabaisse ladled out into a thick
       plate by their high-voiced, broad-browed wives, talked to their
       daughters--thick-set girls, with pure profiles, glorious masses
       of black hair arranged with complicated art, dark eyes, and
       dazzlingly white teeth.
       I had also other acquaintances of quite a different sort. One of
       them, Madame Delestang, an imperious, handsome lady in a
       statuesque style, would carry me off now and then on the front
       seat of her carriage to the Prado, at the hour of fashionable
       airing. She belonged to one of the old aristocratic families in
       the south. In her haughty weariness she used to make me think of
       Lady Dedlock in Dickens's "Bleak House," a work of the master for
       which I have such an admiration, or rather such an intense and
       unreasoning affection, dating from the days of my childhood, that
       its very weaknesses are more precious to me than the strength of
       other men's work. I have read it innumerable times, both in
       Polish and in English; I have read it only the other day, and, by
       a not very surprising inversion, the Lady Dedlock of the book
       reminded me strongly of the belle Madame Delestang.
       Her husband (as I sat facing them both), with his thin bony nose,
       and a perfectly bloodless, narrow physiognomy clamped together as
       it were by short formal side-whiskers, had nothing of Sir
       Leicester Dedlock's "grand air" and courtly solemnity. He
       belonged to the haute bourgeoisie only, and was a banker, with
       whom a modest credit had been opened for my needs. He was such an
       ardent--no, such a frozen-up, mummified Royalist that he used in
       current conversation turns of speech contemporary, I should say,
       with the good Henri Quatre; and when talking of money matters
       reckoned not in francs, like the common, godless herd of post-
       Revolutionary Frenchmen, but in obsolete and forgotten ecus--ecus
       of all money units in the world!--as though Louis Quatorze were
       still promenading in royal splendour the gardens of Versailles,
       and Monsieur de Colbert busy with the direction of maritime
       affairs. You must admit that in a banker of the nineteenth
       century it was a quaint idiosyncrasy. Luckily in the counting-
       house (it occupied part of the ground floor of the Delestang town
       residence, in a silent, shady street) the accounts were kept in
       modern money, so that I never had any difficulty in making my
       wants known to the grave, low-voiced, decorous, Legitimist (I
       suppose) clerks, sitting in the perpetual gloom of heavily barred
       windows behind the sombre, ancient counters, beneath lofty
       ceilings with heavily moulded cornices. I always felt on going
       out as though I had been in the temple of some very dignified but
       completely temporal religion. And it was generally on these
       occasions that under the great carriage gateway Lady Ded-- I mean
       Madame Delestang, catching sight of my raised hat, would beckon
       me with an amiable imperiousness to the side of the carriage, and
       suggest with an air of amused nonchalance, "Venez donc faire un
       tour avec nous," to which the husband would add an encouraging
       "C'est ca. Allons, montez, jeune homme." He questioned me
       sometimes, significantly but with perfect tact and delicacy, as
       to the way I employed my time, and never failed to express the
       hope that I wrote regularly to my "honoured uncle." I made no
       secret of the way I employed my time, and I rather fancy that my
       artless tales of the pilots and so on entertained Madame
       Delestang, so far as that ineffable woman could be entertained by
       the prattle of a youngster very full of his new experience
       amongst strange men and strange sensations. She expressed no
       opinions, and talked to me very little; yet her portrait hangs in
       the gallery of my intimate memories, fixed there by a short and
       fleeting episode. One day, after putting me down at the corner
       of a street, she offered me her hand, and detained me by a slight
       pressure, for a moment. While the husband sat motionless and
       looking straight before him, she leaned forward in the carriage
       to say, with just a shade of warning in her leisurely tone: "Il
       faut, cependant, faire attention a ne pas gater sa vie." I had
       never seen her face so close to mine before. She made my heart
       beat, and caused me to remain thoughtful for a whole evening.
       Certainly one must, after all, take care not to spoil one's life.
       But she did not know--nobody could know--how impossible that
       danger seemed to me.
       Content of CHAPTER VI [Joseph Conrad's book: Some Reminiscences]
       _