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Mornings In Florence
THE SECOND MORNING. THE GOLDEN GATE.
John Ruskin
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       THE SECOND MORNING. THE GOLDEN GATE.
       To-day, as early as you please, and at all events before doing anything
       else, let us go to Giotto's own parish-church, Santa Maria Novella. If,
       walking from the Strozzi Palace, you look on your right for the "Way of
       the Beautiful Ladies," it will take you quickly there.
       Do not let anything in the way of acquaintance, sacristan, or chance
       sight, stop you in doing what I tell you. Walk straight up to the
       church, into the apse of it;--(you may let your eyes rest, as you walk,
       on the glow of its glass, only mind the step, half way;)--and lift the
       curtain; and go in behind the grand marble altar, giving anybody who
       follows you anything they want, to hold their tongues, or go away.
       You know, most probably, already, that the frescos on each side of you
       are Ghirlandajo's. You have been told they are very fine, and if you
       know anything of painting, you know the portraits in them are so.
       Nevertheless, somehow, you don't really enjoy these frescos, nor come
       often here, do you?
       The reason of which is, that if you are a nice person, they are not
       nice enough for you; and if a vulgar person, not vulgar enough. But if
       you are a nice person, I want you to look carefully, to-day, at the two
       lowest, next the windows, for a few minutes, that you may better feel
       the art you are really to study, by its contrast with these.
       On your left hand is represented the birth of the Virgin, On your
       right, her meeting with Elizabeth.
       You can't easily see better pieces--nowhere more pompous pieces--of
       flat goldsmiths' work. Ghirlandajo was to the end of his life a mere
       goldsmith, with a gift of portraiture. And here he has done his best,
       and has put a long wall in wonderful perspective, and the whole city of
       Florence behind Elizabeth's house in the hill country; and a splendid
       bas-relief, in the style of Luca della Robbia, in St. Anne's bedroom;
       and he has carved all the pilasters, and embroidered all the dresses,
       and flourished and trumpeted into every corner; and it is all done,
       within just a point, as well as it can be done; and quite as well as
       Ghirlandajo could do it. But the point in which it _just_ misses
       being as well as it can be done, is the vital point. And it is all
       simply--good for nothing.
       Extricate yourself from the goldsmith's rubbish of it, and look full at
       the Salutation. You will say, perhaps, at first, "What grand and
       graceful figures!" Are you sure they are graceful? Look again and you
       will see their draperies hang from them exactly as they would from two
       clothes-pegs. Now, fine drapery, really well drawn, as it hangs from a
       clothes-peg, is always rather impressive, especially if it be disposed
       in large breadths and deep folds; but that is the only grace of their
       figures.
       Secondly. Look at the Madonna, carefully. You will find she is not the
       least meek--only stupid,--as all the other women in the picture are.
       "St. Elizabeth, you think, is nice"? Yes; "and she says, 'Whence is
       this to me, that the mother of my Lord should come to me?' really with
       a great deal of serious feeling?" Yes, with a great deal. Well, you
       have looked enough at those two. Now--just for another minute--look at
       the birth of the Virgin. "A most graceful group, (your Murray's Guide
       tells you,) in the attendant servants." Extremely so. Also, the one
       holding the child is rather pretty. Also, the servant pouring out the
       water does it from a great height, without splashing, most cleverly.
       Also, the lady coming to ask for St. Anne, and see the baby, walks
       majestically and is very finely dressed. And as for that bas-relief in
       the style of Luca della Robbia, you might really almost think it
       _was_ Luca! The very best plated goods, Master Ghirlandajo, no
       doubt--always on hand at your shop.
       Well, now you must ask for the Sacristan, who is civil and nice enough,
       and get him to let you into the green cloister, and then go into the
       less cloister opening out of it on the right, as you go down the steps;
       and you must ask for the tomb of the Marcheza Stiozzi Ridolfi; and in
       the recess behind the Marcheza's tomb--very close to the ground, and in
       excellent light, if the day is fine--you will see two small frescos,
       only about four feet wide each, in odd-shaped bits of wall--quarters of
       circles; representing--that on the left, the Meeting of Joachim and
       Anna at the Golden Gate; and that on the right, the Birth of the
       Virgin.
       No flourish of trumpets here, at any rate, you think! No gold on the
       gate; and, for the birth of the Virgin--is this all! Goodness!--nothing
       to be seen, whatever, of bas-reliefs, nor fine dresses, nor graceful
       pourings out of water, nor processions of visitors?
       No. There's but one thing you can see, here, which you didn't in
       Ghirlandajo's fresco, unless you were very clever and looked hard for
       it--the Baby! And you are never likely to see a more true piece of
       Giotto's work in this world.
       A round-faced, small-eyed little thing, tied up in a bundle!
       Yes, Giotto was of opinion she must have appeared really not much else
       than that. But look at the servant who has just finished dressing her;
       --awe-struck, full of love and wonder, putting her hand softly on the
       child's head, who has never cried. The nurse, who has just taken her,
       is--the nurse, and no more: tidy in the extreme, and greatly proud and
       pleased: but would be as much so with any other child.
       Ghirlandajo's St. Anne (I ought to have told you to notice that,--you
       can afterwards) is sitting strongly up in bed, watching, if not
       directing, all that is going on. Giotto's lying down on the pillow,
       leans her face on her hand; partly exhausted, partly in deep thought.
       She knows that all will be well done for the child, either by the
       servants, or God; she need not look after anything.
       At the foot of the bed is the midwife, and a servant who has brought
       drink for St. Anne. The servant stops, seeing her so quiet; asking the
       midwife, Shall I give it her now? The midwife, her hands lifted under
       her robe, in the attitude of thanksgiving, (with Giotto distinguishable
       always, though one doesn't know how, from that of prayer,) answers,
       with her look, "Let be--she does not want anything."
       At the door a single acquaintance is coming in, to see the child. Of
       ornament, there is only the entirely simple outline of the vase which
       the servant carries; of colour, two or three masses of sober red, and
       pure white, with brown and gray.
       That is all. And if you can be pleased with this, you can see Florence.
       But if not, by all means amuse yourself there, if you find it amusing,
       as long as you like; you can never see it.
       But if indeed you are pleased, ever so little, with this fresco, think
       what that pleasure means. I brought you, on purpose, round, through the
       richest overture, and farrago of tweedledum and tweedledee, I could
       find in Florence; and here is a tune of four notes, on a shepherd's
       pipe, played by the picture of nobody; and yet you like it! You know
       what music is, then. Here is another little tune, by the same player,
       and sweeter. I let you hear the simplest first.
       The fresco on the left hand, with the bright blue sky, and the rosy
       figures! Why, anybody might like that!
       Yes; but, alas, all the blue sky is repainted. It _was_ blue
       always, however, and bright too; and I dare say, when the fresco was
       first done, anybody _did_ like it.
       You know the story of Joachim and Anna, I hope? Not that I do, myself,
       quite in the ins and outs; and if you don't I'm not going to keep you
       waiting while I tell it. All you need know, and you scarcely, before
       this fresco, need know so much, is, that here are an old husband and
       old wife, meeting again by surprise, after losing each other, and being
       each in great fear;--meeting at the place where they were told by God
       each to go, without knowing what was to happen there.
       "So they rushed into one another's arms, and kissed each other."
       No, says Giotto,--not that.
       "They advanced to meet, in a manner conformable to the strictest laws
       of composition; and with their draperies cast into folds which no one
       until Raphael could have arranged better."
       No, says Giotto,--not that.
       St. Anne has moved quickest; her dress just falls into folds sloping
       backwards enough to tell you so much. She has caught St. Joachim by his
       mantle, and draws him to her, softly, by that. St. Joachim lays his
       hand under her arm, seeing she is like to faint, and holds her up. They
       do not kiss each other--only look into each other's eyes. And God's
       angel lays his hand on their heads.
       Behind them, there are two rough figures, busied with their own
       affairs,--two of Joachim's shepherds; one, bare headed, the other
       wearing the wide Florentine cap with the falling point behind, which is
       exactly like the tube of a larkspur or violet; both carrying game, and
       talking to each other about--Greasy Joan and her pot, or the like. Not
       at all the sort of persons whom you would have thought in harmony with
       the scene;--by the laws of the drama, according to Racine or Voltaire.
       No, but according to Shakespeare, or Giotto, these are just the kind of
       persons likely to be there: as much as the angel is likely to be there
       also, though you will be told nowadays that Giotto was absurd for
       putting _him_ into the sky, of which an apothecary can always
       produce the similar blue, in a bottle. And now that you have had
       Shakespeare, and sundry other men of head and heart, following the
       track of this shepherd lad, _you_ can forgive him his grotesques
       in the corner. But that he should have forgiven them to himself, after
       the training he had, this is the wonder! _We_ have seen simple
       pictures enough in our day; and therefore we think that of course
       shepherd boys will sketch shepherds: what wonder is there in that?
       I can show you how in _this_ shepherd boy it was very wonderful
       indeed, if you will walk for five minutes back into the church with me,
       and up into the chapel at the end of the south transept,--at least if
       the day is bright, and you get the Sacristan to undraw the window-curtain
       in the transept itself. For then the light of it will be enough to show
       you the entirely authentic and most renowned work of Giotto's master; and
       you will see through what schooling the lad had gone.
       A good and brave master he was, if ever boy had one; and, as you will
       find when you know really who the great men are, the master is half
       their life; and well they know it--always naming themselves from their
       master, rather than their families. See then what kind of work Giotto
       had been first put to. There is, literally, not a square inch of all
       that panel--some ten feet high by six or seven wide--which is not
       wrought in gold and colour with the fineness of a Greek manuscript.
       There is not such an elaborate piece of ornamentation in the first page
       of any Gothic king's missal, as you will find in that Madonna's
       throne;--the Madonna herself is meant to be grave and noble only; and
       to be attended only by angels.
       And here is this saucy imp of a lad declares his people must do without
       gold, and without thrones; nay, that the Golden Gate itself shall have
       no gilding that St. Joachim and St. Anne shall have only one angel
       between them: and their servants shall have their joke, and nobody say
       them nay!
       It is most wonderful; and would have been impossible, had Cimabue been
       a common man, though ever so great in his own way. Nor could I in any
       of my former thinking understand how it was, till I saw Cimabue's own
       work at Assisi; in which he shows himself, at heart, as independent of
       his gold as Giotto,--even more intense, capable of higher things than
       Giotto, though of none, perhaps, so keen or sweet. But to this day,
       among all the Mater Dolorosas of Christianity, Cimabue's at Assisi is
       the noblest; nor did any painter after him add one link to the chain of
       thought with which he summed the creation of the earth, and preached
       its redemption.
       He evidently never checked the boy, from the first day he found him.
       Showed him all he knew: talked with him of many things he felt himself
       unable to paint: made him a workman and a gentleman,--above all, a
       Christian,--yet left him--a shepherd. And Heaven had made him such a
       painter, that, at his height, the words of his epitaph are in nowise
       overwrought: "Ille ego sum, per quem pictura extincta revixit."
       A word or two, now, about the repainting by which _this_ pictura
       extincta has been revived to meet existing taste. The sky is entirely
       daubed over with fresh blue; yet it leaves with unusual care the
       original outline of the descending angel, and of the white clouds about
       his body. This idea of the angel laying his hands on the two heads--(as
       a bishop at Confirmation does, in a hurry; and I've seen one sweep four
       together, like Arnold de Winkelied),--partly in blessing, partly as a
       symbol of their being brought together to the same place by God,--was
       afterwards repeated again and again: there is one beautiful little echo
       of it among the old pictures in the schools of Oxford. This is the
       first occurrence of it that I know in pure Italian painting; but the
       idea is Etruscan-Greek, and is used by the Etruscan sculptors of the
       door of the Baptistery of Pisa, of the _evil_ angel, who "lays the
       heads together" of two very different persons from these--Herodias and
       her daughter.
       Joachim, and the shepherd with the larkspur cap, are both quite safe;
       the other shepherd a little reinforced; the black bunches of grass,
       hanging about are retouches. They were once bunches of plants drawn
       with perfect delicacy and care; you may see one left, faint, with
       heart-shaped leaves, on the highest ridge of rock above the shepherds.
       The whole landscape is, however, quite undecipherably changed and
       spoiled.
       You will be apt to think at first, that if anything has been restored,
       surely the ugly shepherd's uglier feet have. No, not at all. Restored
       feet are always drawn with entirely orthodox and academical toes, like
       the Apollo Belvidere's. You would have admired them very much. These
       are Giotto's own doing, every bit; and a precious business he has had
       of it, trying again and again--in vain. Even hands were difficult
       enough to him, at this time; but feet, and bare legs! Well, he'll have
       a try, he thinks, and gets really a fair line at last, when you are
       close to it; but, laying the light on the ground afterwards, he dare
       not touch this precious and dear-bought outline. Stops all round it, a
       quarter of an inch off, [Footnote: Perhaps it is only the restorer's
       white on the ground that stops; but I think a restorer would never have
       been so wise, but have gone right up to the outline, and spoiled all.]
       with such effect as you see. But if you want to know what sort of legs
       and feet he _can_ draw, look at our _lambs_, in the corner of
       the fresco under the arch on your left!
       And there is one on your right, though more repainted--the little
       Virgin presenting herself at the Temple,--about which I could also say
       much. The stooping figure, kissing the hem of her robe without her
       knowing, is, as far as I remember, first in this fresco; the origin,
       itself, of the main design in all the others you know so well; (and
       with its steps, by the way, in better perspective already than most of
       them).
       "_This_ the original one!" you will be inclined to exclaim, if you
       have any general knowledge of the subsequent art. "_This_ Giotto!
       why it's a cheap rechauffe of Titian!" No, my friend. The boy who tried
       so hard to draw those steps in perspective had been carried down
       others, to his grave, two hundred years before Titian ran alone at
       Cadore. But, as surely as Venice looks on the sea, Titian looked upon
       this, and caught the reflected light of it forever.
       What kind of boy is this, think you, who can make Titian his copyist,
       --Dante his friend? What new power is here which is to change the heart
       of Italy?--can you see it, feel it, writing before you these words on
       the faded wall?
       "You shall see things--as they Are."
       "And the least with the greatest, because God made them."
       "And the greatest with the least, because God made _you_, and gave
       you eyes and a heart."
       I. You shall see things--as they are. So easy a matter that, you think?
       So much more difficult and sublime to paint grand processions and
       golden thrones, than St. Anne faint on her pillow, and her servant at
       pause?
       Easy or not, it is all the sight that is required of you in this
       world,--to see things, and men, and yourself,--as they are.
       II. And the least with the greatest, because God made them,--shepherd,
       and flock, and grass of the field, no less than the Golden Gate.
       III. But also the golden gate of Heaven itself, open, and the angels of
       God coming down from it.
       These three things Giotto taught, and men believed, in his day. Of
       which Faith you shall next see brighter work; only before we leave the
       cloister, I want to sum for you one or two of the instant and evident
       technical changes produced in the school of Florence by this teaching.
       One of quite the first results of Giotto's simply looking at things as
       they were, was his finding out that a red thing was red, and a brown
       thing brown, and a white thing white--all over.
       The Greeks had painted anything anyhow,--gods black, horses red, lips
       and cheeks white; and when the Etruscan vase expanded into a Cimabue
       picture, or a Tafi mosaic, still,--except that the Madonna was to have
       a blue dress, and everything else as much gold on it as could be
       managed,--there was very little advance in notions of colour. Suddenly,
       Giotto threw aside all the glitter, and all the conventionalism; and
       declared that he saw the sky blue, the tablecloth white, and angels,
       when he dreamed of them, rosy. And he simply founded the schools of
       colour in Italy--Venetian and all, as I will show you to-morrow
       morning, if it is fine. And what is more, nobody discovered much about
       colour after him.
       But a deeper result of his resolve to look at things as they were, was
       his getting so heartily interested in them that he couldn't miss their
       decisive _moment_. There is a decisive instant in all matters; and
       if you look languidly, you are sure to miss it. Nature seems always,
       somehow, trying to make you miss it. "I will see that through," you
       must say, "with out turning my head"; or you won't see the trick of it
       at all. And the most significant thing in all his work, you will find
       hereafter, is his choice of moments. I will give you at once two
       instances in a picture which, for other reasons, you should quickly
       compare with these frescos. Return by the Via delle Belle Donne; keep
       the Casa Strozzi on your right; and go straight on, through the market.
       The Florentines think themselves so civilized, forsooth, for building a
       nuovo Lung-Arno, and three manufactory chimneys opposite it: and yet
       sell butchers' meat, dripping red, peaches, and anchovies, side by
       side: it is a sight to be seen. Much more, Luca della Robbia's Madonna
       in the circle above the chapel door. Never pass near the market without
       looking at it; and glance from the vegetables underneath to Luca's
       leaves and lilies, that you may see how honestly he was trying to make
       his clay like the garden-stuff. But to-day, you may pass quickly on to
       the Uffizii, which will be just open; and when you enter the great
       gallery, turn to the right, and there, the first picture you come at
       will be No. 6, Giotto's "Agony in the garden."
       I used to think it so dull that I could not believe it was Giotto's.
       That is partly from its dead colour, which is the boy's way of telling
       you it is night:--more from the subject being one quite beyond his age,
       and which he felt no pleasure in trying at. You may see he was still a
       boy, for he not only cannot draw feet yet, in the least, and
       scrupulously hides them therefore; but is very hard put to it for the
       hands, being obliged to draw them mostly in the same position,--all the
       four fingers together. But in the careful bunches of grass and weeds
       you will see what the fresco foregrounds were before they got spoiled;
       and there are some things he can understand already, even about that
       Agony, thinking of it in his own fixed way. Some things,--not
       altogether to be explained by the old symbol of the angel with the cup.
       He will try if he cannot explain them better in those two little
       pictures below; which nobody ever looks at; the great Roman sarcophagus
       being put in front of them, and the light glancing on the new varnish
       so that you must twist about like a lizard to see anything.
       Nevertheless, you may make out what Giotto meant.
       "The cup which my Father hath given me, shall I not drink it?" In what
       was its bitterness?--thought the boy. "Crucifixion?--Well, it hurts,
       doubtless; but the thieves had to bear it too, and many poor human
       wretches have to bear worse on our battlefields. But"--and he thinks,
       and thinks, and then he paints his two little pictures for the
       predella.
       They represent, of course, the sequence of the time in Gethsemane; but
       see what choice the youth made of his moments, having two panels to
       fill. Plenty of choice for him--in pain. The Flagellation--the Mocking
       --the Bearing of the Cross;--all habitually given by the Margheritones,
       and their school, as extremes of pain.
       "No," thinks Giotto. "There was worse than all that. Many a good man
       has been mocked, spitefully entreated, spitted on, slain. But who was
       ever so betrayed? Who ever saw such a sword thrust in his mother's
       heart?"
       He paints, first, the laying hands on Him in the garden, but with only
       two principal figures,--Judas and Peter, of course; Judas and Peter
       were always principal in the old Byzantine composition,--Judas giving
       the kiss--Peter cutting off the servant's ear. But the two are here,
       not merely principal, but almost alone in sight, all the other figures
       thrown back; and Peter is not at all concerned about the servant, or
       his struggle with him. He has got him down,--but looks back suddenly at
       Judas giving the kiss. What!--_you_ are the traitor, then--you!
       "Yes," says Giotto; "and you, also, in an hour more."
       The other picture is more deeply felt, still. It is of Christ brought
       to the foot of the cross. There is no wringing of hands or lamenting
       crowd--no haggard signs of fainting or pain in His body. Scourging or
       fainting, feeble knee and torn wound,--he thinks scorn of all that,
       this shepherd-boy. One executioner is hammering the wedges of the cross
       harder down. The other--not ungently--is taking Christ's red robe off
       His shoulders. And St. John, a few yards off, is keeping his mother
       from coming nearer. She looks _down_, not at Christ; but tries to
       come.
       And now you may go on for your day's seeings through the rest of the
       gallery, if you will--Fornarina, and the wonderful cobbler, and all the
       rest of it. I don't want you any more till to-morrow morning.
       But if, meantime, you will sit down,--say, before Sandro Botticelli's
       "Fortitude," which I shall want you to look at, one of these days; (No.
       1299, innermost room from the Tribune,) and there read this following
       piece of one of my Oxford lectures on the relation of Cimabue to
       Giotto, you will be better prepared for our work to-morrow morning in
       Santa Croce; and may find something to consider of, in the room you are
       in. Where, by the way, observe that No. 1288 is a most true early
       Lionardo, of extreme interest: and the savants who doubt it are--never
       mind what; but sit down at present at the feet of Fortitude, and read.
       Those of my readers who have been unfortunate enough to interest
       themselves in that most profitless of studies--the philosophy of art
       --have been at various times teased or amused by disputes respecting the
       relative dignity of the contemplative and dramatic schools.
       Contemplative, of course, being the term attached to the system of
       painting things only for the sake of their own niceness--a lady because
       she is pretty, or a lion because he is strong: and the dramatic school
       being that which cannot be satisfied unless it sees something going on:
       which can't paint a pretty lady unless she is being made love to, or
       being murdered; and can't paint a stag or a lion unless they are being
       hunted, or shot, or the one eating the other.
       You have always heard me--or, if not, will expect by the very tone of
       this sentence to hear me, now, on the whole recommend you to prefer the
       Contemplative school. But the comparison is always an imperfect and
       unjust one, unless quite other terms are introduced.
       The real greatness or smallness of schools is not in their preference
       of inactivity to action, nor of action to inactivity. It is in their
       preference of worthy things to unworthy, in rest; and of kind action to
       unkind, in business.
       A Dutchman can be just as solemnly and entirely contemplative of a
       lemon pip and a cheese paring, as an Italian of the Virgin in Glory. An
       English squire has pictures, purely contemplative, of his favorite
       horse--and a Parisian lady, pictures, purely contemplative, of the back
       and front of the last dress proposed to her in La Mode Artistique. All
       these works belong to the same school of silent admiration;--the vital
       question concerning them is, "What do you admire?"
       Now therefore, when you hear me so often saying that the Northern
       races--Norman and Lombard,--are active, or dramatic, in their art; and
       that the Southern races--Greek and Arabian,--are contemplative, you
       ought instantly to ask farther, Active in what? Contemplative of what?
       And the answer is, The active art--Lombardic,--rejoices in hunting and
       fighting; the contemplative art--Byzantine,--contemplates the mysteries
       of the Christian faith.
       And at first, on such answer, one would be apt at once to conclude--All
       grossness must be in the Lombard; all good in the Byzantine. But again
       we should be wrong,--and extremely wrong. For the hunting and fighting
       did practically produce strong, and often virtuous, men; while the
       perpetual and inactive contemplation of what it was impossible to
       understand, did not on the whole render the contemplative persons,
       stronger, wiser, or even more amiable. So that, in the twelfth century,
       while the Northern art was only in need of direction, the Southern was
       in need of life. The North was indeed spending its valour and virtue on
       ignoble objects; but the South disgracing the noblest objects by its
       want of valour and virtue.
       Central stood Etruscan Florence--her root in the earth, bound with iron
       and brass--wet with the dew of heaven. Agriculture in occupation,
       religious in thought, she accepted, like good ground, the good;
       refused, like the Rock of Fesole, the evil; directed the industry of
       the Northman into the arts of peace; kindled the dreams of the
       Byzantine with the fire of charity. Child of her peace, and exponent of
       her passion, her Cimabue became the interpreter to mankind of the
       meaning of the Birth of Christ.
       We hear constantly, and think naturally, of him as of a man whose
       peculiar genius in painting suddenly reformed its principles; who
       suddenly painted, out of his own gifted imagination, beautiful instead
       of rude pictures; and taught his scholar Giotto to carry on the
       impulse; which we suppose thenceforward to have enlarged the resources
       and bettered the achievements of painting continually, up to our own
       time,--when the triumphs of art having been completed, and its uses
       ended, something higher is offered to the ambition of mankind; and Watt
       and Faraday initiate the Age of Manufacture and Science, as Cimabue and
       Giotto instituted that of Art and Imagination.
       In this conception of the History of Mental and Physical culture, we
       much overrate the influence, though we cannot overrate the power, of
       the men by whom the change seems to have been effected. We cannot
       overrate their power,--for the greatest men of any age, those who
       become its leaders when there is a great march to be begun, are indeed
       separated from the average intellects of their day by a distance which
       is immeasurable in any ordinary terms of wonder.
       But we far overrate their influence; because the apparently sudden
       result of their labour or invention is only the manifested fruit of the
       toil and thought of many who preceded them, and of whose names we have
       never heard. The skill of Cimabue cannot be extolled too highly; but no
       Madonna by his hand could ever have rejoiced the soul of Italy, unless
       for a thousand years before, many a nameless Greek and nameless Goth
       had adorned the traditions, and lived in the love, of the Virgin.
       In like manner, it is impossible to overrate the sagacity, patience, or
       precision, of the masters in modern mechanical and scientific
       discovery. But their sudden triumph, and the unbalancing of all the
       world by their words, may not in any wise be attributed to their own
       power, or even to that of the facts they have ascertained. They owe
       their habits and methods of industry to the paternal example, no less
       than the inherited energy, of men who long ago prosecuted the truths of
       nature, through the rage of war, and the adversity of superstition; and
       the universal and overwhelming consequences of the facts which their
       followers have now proclaimed, indicate only the crisis of a rapture
       produced by the offering of new objects of curiosity to nations who had
       nothing to look at; and of the amusement of novel motion and action to
       nations who had nothing to do.
       Nothing to look at! That is indeed--you will find, if you consider of
       it--our sorrowful case. The vast extent of the advertising frescos of
       London, daily refreshed into brighter and larger frescos by its
       billstickers, cannot somehow sufficiently entertain the popular eyes.
       The great Mrs. Allen, with her flowing hair, and equally flowing
       promises, palls upon repetition, and that Madonna of the nineteenth
       century smiles in vain above many a borgo unrejoiced; even the
       excitement of the shop-window, with its unattainable splendours, or too
       easily attainable impostures, cannot maintain itself in the wearying
       mind of the populace, and I find my charitable friends inviting the
       children, whom the streets educate only into vicious misery, to
       entertainments of scientific vision, in microscope or magic lantern;
       thus giving them something to look at, such as it is;--fleas mostly;
       and the stomachs of various vermin; and people with their heads cut off
       and set on again;--still _something_, to look at.
       The fame of Cimabue rests, and justly, on a similar charity. He gave
       the populace of his day something to look at; and satisfied their
       curiosity with science of something they had long desired to know. We
       have continually imagined in our carelessness, that his triumph
       consisted only in a new pictorial skill; recent critical writers,
       unable to comprehend how any street populace could take pleasure in
       painting, have ended by denying his triumph altogether, and insisted
       that he gave no joy to Florence; and that the "Joyful quarter" was
       accidentally so named--or at least from no other festivity than that of
       the procession attending Charles of Anjou. I proved to you, in a former
       lecture, that the old tradition was true, and the delight of the people
       unquestionable. But that delight was not merely in the revelation of an
       art they had not known how to practise; it was delight in the
       revelation of a Madonna whom they had not known how to love.
       Again; what was revelation to _them_--we suppose farther and as
       unwisely, to have been only art in _him_; that in better laying of
       colours,--in better tracing of perspectives--in recovery of principles,
       of classic composition--he had manufactured, as our Gothic Firms now
       manufacture to order, a Madonna--in whom he believed no more than they.
       Not so. First of the Florentines, first of European men--he attained in
       thought, and saw with spiritual eyes, exercised to discern good from
       evil,--the face of her who was blessed among women; and with his
       following hand, made visible the Magnificat of his heart.
       He magnified the Maid; and Florence rejoiced in her Queen. But it was
       left for Giotto to make the queenship better beloved, in its sweet
       humiliation.
       You had the Etruscan stock in Florence--Christian, or at least semi-
       Christian; the statue of Mars still in its streets, but with its
       central temple built for Baptism in the name of Christ. It was a race
       living by agriculture; gentle, thoughtful, and exquisitely fine in
       handiwork. The straw bonnet of Tuscany--the Leghorn--is pure Etruscan
       art, young ladies:--only plaited gold of God's harvest, instead of the
       plaited gold of His earth.
       You had then the Norman and Lombard races coming down on this: kings,
       and hunters--splendid in war--insatiable of action. You had the Greek
       and Arabian races flowing from the east, bringing with them the law of
       the City, and the dream of the Desert.
       Cimabue--Etruscan born, gave, we saw, the life of the Norman to the
       tradition of the Greek: eager action to holy contemplation. And what
       more is left for his favourite shepherd boy Giotto to do, than this,
       except to paint with ever-increasing skill? We fancy he only surpassed
       Cimabue--eclipsed by greater brightness.
       Not so. The sudden and new applause of Italy would never have been won
       by mere increase of the already-kindled light. Giotto had wholly
       another work to do. The meeting of the Norman race with the Byzantine
       is not merely that of action with repose--not merely that of war with
       religion,--it is the meeting of _domestic_ life with _monastic_, and of
       practical household sense with unpractical Desert insanity.
       I have no other word to use than this last. I use it reverently,
       meaning a very noble thing; I do not know how far I ought to say--even
       a divine thing. Decide that for yourselves. Compare the Northern farmer
       with St. Francis; the palm hardened by stubbing Thornaby waste, with
       the palm softened by the imagination of the wounds of Christ. To my own
       thoughts, both are divine; decide that for yourselves; but assuredly,
       and without possibility of other decision, one is, humanly speaking,
       healthy; the other _un_healthy; one sane, the other--insane.
       To reconcile Drama with Dream, Cimabue's task was comparatively an easy
       one. But to reconcile Sense with--I still use even this following word
       reverently--Nonsense, is not so easy; and he who did it first,--no
       wonder he has a name in the world.
       I must lean, however, still more distinctly on the word "domestic." For
       it is not Rationalism and commercial competition--Mr. Stuart Mill's"
       other career for woman than that of wife and mother "--which are
       reconcilable, by Giotto, or by anybody else, with divine vision. But
       household wisdom, labour of love, toil upon earth according to the law
       of Heaven--these are reconcilable, in one code of glory, with
       revelation in cave or island, with the endurance of desolate and
       loveless days, with the repose of folded hands that wait Heaven's time.
       Domestic and monastic. He was the first of Italians--the first of
       Christians--who _equally_ knew the virtue of both lives; and who
       was able to show it in the sight of men of all ranks,--from the prince
       to the shepherd; and of all powers,--from the wisest philosopher to the
       simplest child.
       For, note the way in which the new gift of painting, bequeathed to him
       by his great master, strengthened his hands. Before Cimabue, no
       beautiful rendering of human form was possible; and the rude or formal
       types of the Lombard and Byzantine, though they would serve in the
       tumult of the chase, or as the recognized symbols of creed, could not
       represent personal and domestic character. Faces with goggling eyes and
       rigid lips might be endured with ready help of imagination, for gods,
       angels, saints, or hunters--or for anybody else in scenes of recognized
       legend, but would not serve for pleasant portraiture of one's own self
       --or of the incidents of gentle, actual life. And even Cimabue did not
       venture to leave the sphere of conventionally reverenced dignity. He
       still painted--though beautifully--only the Madonna, and the St.
       Joseph, and the Christ. These he made living,--Florence asked no more:
       and "Credette Cimabue nella pintura tener lo campo."
       But Giotto came from the field, and saw with his simple eyes a lowlier
       worth. And he painted--the Madonna, and St. Joseph, and the Christ,--yes,
       by all means if you choose to call them so, but essentially,--Mamma, Papa,
       and the Baby. And all Italy threw up its cap,--"Ora ha Giotto il grido."
       For he defines, explains, and exalts, every sweet incident of human
       nature; and makes dear to daily life every mystic imagination of
       natures greater than our own. He reconciles, while he intensifies,
       every virtue of domestic and monastic thought. He makes the simplest
       household duties sacred, and the highest religious passions serviceable
       and just.
       Content of THE SECOND MORNING. THE GOLDEN GATE. [John Ruskin's book: Mornings in Florence]
       _